June 2015

 In which we behave (almost) like yotties on a summer cruise.

After a week away, we returned to find that summer had arrived on the Clyde.  Temperatures soaring to the mid ‘teens and light winds.  We had no firm plan.  Just wished to explore and return to Rhu in time for our planned maintenance.

We got on board Sunday mid-afternoon and, with light winds forecast for the week, we wanted to take advantage of the pleasant NNwly wind.  So, after provisioning, watering and fuelling, we cast off and had a pleasant beat down Kilcreggan reach and up Holy Loch.  Private moorings have taken up most of the available anchorage but, after a little searching, we found a comfortable spot.

A light northerly sprang up on Monday morning.  We weight anchor at 0930 and put up the cruising chute for a gentle sail down the Clyde.  By 1300, the wind was backing to NW’ly, so up with the main and continued on a broad reach.  At 1400, with an increase to F3-4, we dropped the chute and continued under main and genoa.  Once past the southern tip of Bute, the wind increased to F5, so we put in a reef and had a great reach down to Lamlash bay.  Once again, we defied convention by dropping our hook rather than picking up a mooring.

Tuesday, there was a very light southerly.  Not really suitable for sailing but we had no-where to go and all the time in the world to get there so we picked up at mid-day and beat out past the southern end of Holy island and down the coast of Arran.  The wind was forecast to be light northerly overnight and we planned to anchor off Kildonan for the night but, just as we got there, a brisk SW’ly sprung up so we reversed our effort of the past 2 hours and, in 20 minutes, sailed back to the East of Pladda and dropped the anchor there instead.  Total achieved distance for the day – 7 miles, which sets a new low record.

We continued our circumnavigation of Arran on Wednesday in, mostly, very light winds.  During the one good hour of NW’ly 3-4 we were passed by the ‘Huckleberry’, a 40m superyacht.  We hoped that she would spread her wings and sail but she just carried on motoring, heading for Northern Ireland.  Anchored again in our favoured spot at Torrisdale bay, only to see a brisk Northerly spring up and continue late into the evening.

Flat calm Thursday morning led us to motor the 13 miles to Lochranza, launch Rubette (the dinghy) and row ashore for lunch and much-needed internet.  Lunch over, we continued North, this time under sail, into Loch Fyne, anchoring at Ardmarnock bay.

Friday, we continued North, initially beating into a light N’ly then running before a building SW’ly up to Inverary then back to Creggans for the night.  We treated ourselves to a run ashore for dinner at the Creggans Inn and regretted it.  Very poor food and over-priced. 

No wind on Saturday compelled us to motor for a couple of hours as we now had a target of getting back to Rhu for Monday but, on passing the narrows a consistent N’ly 2, occasionally 3, meant that we could sail down to Asgog bay for the night. For the first time since entering the Firth of Clyde, we saw an appreciable number of yachts today, but only about 1 in 5 was actually sailing.  Maybe it’s us.

An E’ly 3 on Sunday morning meant that we could sail, close-hauled, down to the southern tip of Bute.  Here the wind died and we motored for an hour until a N’ly 2-3 sprang up and we beat our way up to Dunoon.  Again plenty of other yachts and this time about 50% were sailing.  We had to motor the last 8 miles ourselves and anchored in Rosneath bay, just opposite Rhu.

On Monday morning there was much activity with tugs and landing craft full of marines heading up Gairloch so we scooted ASAP across to Rhu in case there was going to be nuclear submarine activity and we got told to stay put.  A flat calm meant that we could drop the genoa and de-rig the main in a leisurely fashion.  The rest of the day was spent disconnecting electrics, taking off the boom and slackening the standing rigging in preparation for dis-masting.

Tuesday, Ruby got lifted out to spend the next 10 days in maintenance, just as 25% of Britain’s nuclear deterrent steamed down Gairloch, accompanied by the aforementioned tugs, landing craft and police boats.  

May 2015 - part 2

In which we start heading south.

After a week away, we arrived back on the ferry at 0730 on the 13^th.  The forecast for the next 2 days was excellent, with NNW’ly F 4 - 5 and fine weather.  As we had never done more than day sails with just the 2 of us, we decided to take this opportunity to test our ability to make a long passage.  Lerwick to Stornaway is 210 miles and, once Sumburgh rost has been negotiated, reasonably hazard free. 36 – 40 hours seemed a reasonable estimate so after a quick provisioning trip we cast off and headed South, full genoa giving us over 7 knots.  4 hours later we altered course to WSW and hoisted a well reefed main.  Still 7 knots.  We were hugging ourselves in glee as we confirmed our plans and set watches.  Elsie was to take the next watch off and went below.  She complained of an upset stomach but I, wishfully, thought that this was minor and continued on track.  It was not and she became very ill with symptoms of severe food poisoning (you don’t want the details!) and it became obvious that she would not be able to contribute further to this voyage so, at 1800, I made the decision to divert into South Bay, North Ronaldsay, arriving at 2100 at a very quiet and straightforward anchorage.

Another experiment for this trip was wind steering.  We had played with in light airs last Autumn but not used it for real.  If we are ever to make ocean passages, it will be essential for power consumption, if nothing else.  Accordingly, we shipped the rudder before departure and mounted the wind vane once in open water.  Despite a following swell, it kept a reasonable course and our confidence grew.  The auto-pilot is George, so the wind steering needed christened.  Georgina? No.  Harriet (Hydrovane) seems more appropriate.  We are confident that she will be Hattie in no time.

Hattie

Elsie was still fragile the following morning so, after a late start we headed through the islands.  The wind had veered to E’ly 3 so the cruising chute came out and gave us a good 6-7 knots towards Rapness Sound.  We arrived at the narrows a little late for slack water and doused the chute to motor through.  A good decision as, 2 minutes after re-deploying it, a gust broke the weak link at the head and we had to retrieve it from the sea.  After a fresh water rinse and a while under genoa, it went up again until we were past Rousay and could head south on a beam, then close reach down to Hoy Mouth and into Stromness.

The next 3 days were forecast for strong W’lys so, rather than knock ourselves out with Elsie still recovering, we decided to do what cruisers do and relax.  We even hired a car on the Saturday and did a tour of the mainland, ticking off the must-sees of the Italian Chapel, Scara Brae, the ring of Brodgar .

Monday saw us well rested so we decided to attempt a non-stop to Stornaway, now just 110 miles away.  The wind was lighter than ideal, NNW’ly F2 but at least we should have a comfortable passage and we had plenty of fuel.  Hoy Mouth currents and the desire for a daylight arrival dictated an 1100 departure so we had a relaxed start.  Once clear of the mouth, the full main went up and we alternately beam reached in light airs or motor-sailed when even these failed.  As Elsie had never been in sole charge before, I decided on very short, 2 ½ hour, watches.  While neither of us would get a proper sleep, we could at least take turns napping and, hopefully be reasonably alert for arrival.  This worked well and, by midnight Elsie was making and executing decisions on sail plan and traffic avoidance.  We rounded Cape Wrath at 2200 and by 2300 the wind had settled to a steady NW’ly 3-4 so we continued through the night on a beam reach with a single reefed main and full genoa.  We rounded the Eye peninsula at 0530 and, close hauled, reached the entrance at 0700.  Down sails and motor in to the marina, with very clear directions from harbour control.  We were surprised to be met on the pontoon at 0730 by a representative of the port bearing gifts, including a calendar and a miniature of whisky.  Heads down for a catch-up on sleep.  A visit from an old flying colleague and a little light shopping filled the day.

Wednesday, we were off berth at 0840, heading south towards Loch Skiport on South Uist.  The forecast was for NW’ly 4-5, backing SW’ly later.  The NW’ly lasted about 40 minutes then we had SW’ly 2-3 for the rest of the day.  Our ambitions grew less, via Loch Eport on N. Uist and then Dunvegan on Skye.  This has been a planned destination on at least 2 previous cruises and we finally made it after a tortuous beat past Waternish Point turned into a glorious beam reach up Loch Dunvegan.  Information on moorings and anchorage is rather scarce, but we found a good spot and put out lots of chain, expecting a blow in the night.  A the tide went out, we discovered that as well as obvious mooring bouys (obvious, but unknown as to owner or maintenance history), there were 2 that had been submerged at high water and we must have been very close to running over one of these while manouvering – gulp!

Dunvegan Castle 

Thursday, we should have got the dinghy out and done the tourist thing round Dunvegan castle, but neither of us could quite work up the enthusiasm with 25 knot winds and frequent showers, so a lazy day instead catching up on log books etc.

Cloud on Skye

Although Harriet had performed well on the first day, I was concerned to see that not only did the bolts holding her to the hull need tightening but that the sideways stresses on the upper mounting were flexing the skin of the gas locker and possibly stressing the lower attachment point on the skin of the steering flat.  This means that we don’t have the confidence to use her again until we have reinforced these areas.  On-going electrical problems have meant that we were considering some shore maintenance and this is now a priority.  We have booked into the yard at Rhu for the second half of June to get this done, so we now have a medium term goal.

Friday brought fair weather again, so close reach out of Loch Dunvegan and then down the coast of Skye, broadening to pass the Small Isles.  We routed between Canna and Oigh Sgeir, which can be a rough stretch with shallow banks after a long fetch from the west but, with only a force 4 and a following current, it was kind to us. We had tried to avoid Tobermory, as we seem to always end up here, but it is just so conveniently located and, once again its magnet worked on us.  Tied up at 2040 after 13 ½ hours and 83.5 miles logged.

Tobermory

A late start on Saturday, to catch the southerly tidal flow through Mull Sound, allowed provisioning and laundry.  We had multiple optional destinations: Loch Aline (too early to stop), Loch Spelvie (strong currents at mouth would have meant a very early start on the morrow to get an acceptable passage), Easdale (uncertain how comfortable it would be with wind across current).  Eventually plumped for Otters Pool on the North of Siel.  This is a beautiful little anchorage, but rather confined.  On our first visit, we had to share with 3 others and had a little difficulty finding a space.  The second time, we were alone and managed to get the prime location.  This time, on the approach, we counted masts as they appeared over the sheltering islets. 6, 7, 8!  In fact, with our increasing experience, we had little difficulty in working out how to fit in to the pattern and, after our first attempt put the hook 10 metres away from the perfect position, the second was spot on and we settled in for a comfortable night. The evening’s entertainment being provided by 3 even later comers.  They too managed to find berths.

Timing for the next leg was critical, with the tidal gate at the top of the Sound of Jura giving flows in excess of 5 knots.  Happily, a departure of 0830 put us through this gate at slack water and gave a following current all the way down.  A westerly wind, F 4-5, also meant that, after an initial 4 miles close hauled, we had a near beam reach for 45 miles before once more turning into wind and beating up to Port Ellen on the South of Jura.  A great day’s sailing, though enjoyed more by the Captain than the Mate, who would have preferred a little less canvas being deployed.  Anchored in the NW side of the bay for a very comfortable night.

Monday 25^th, we hauled up anchor at 0800 and headed for the Mull of Kintyre.  A direct route would have us headed by a strong current but careful study of the tidal atlas suggested that heading East until close to the coast and then down it would produce a neutral, or even favourable currents and so it proved.  Progress was initially slow, dead running with sails goose winged before a WNW’ly F2 - 3 giving us 3 – 4 knots.  When even this wind died, we motored for 30 minutes, to murmurings by the Mate about lack of patience shown by the Captain.  On turning south, the wind increased to a steady F3.  Engine stopped and Chute deployed on a broad reach.  The occasional F4 gust induced us to snuff it but, on the expectations of lower winds later we left it on the foredeck – error.

Winds accelerate round capes.  I learned this almost at my mother’s knee, so I have no excuse for the manner of our passing the Mull of Kintyre. We were broad reaching under full main and genoa, heading south with a 10 knot W’ly.  We gave the Mull a respectable berth – 1 ½ miles and gybed, with the main sheeted hard in.  As we did so, we were hit by a gust peaking at 26 knots.  We were instantly heeled to 45 degrees and Elsie was dumped to the lee side of the cockpit.  I managed to free the sheets but even so we were headed for the cliffs at 8 knots.  Rapidly, 2 reefs were put in Genoa and main and we resumed track, suitably chastened.  Our lunch, retrieved from the galley deck was dusted off and consumed.  Only then did I notice that the cruising chute had been blown / washed off the foredeck and was trailing over the side.  Its second salt water wash in as many weeks.

Variable winds through Sanda sound morphed into a steady(ish) NW’ly F4-5 for our journey up the east side of the peninsular.  They gave a nasty chop and as we batted into it we would pitch 3 or 4 times and then slam, reducing our speed to 3-4 knots.  Tacking close to the shore improved this and, eventually, we made our destination – Torrisdale bay.  Another lovely anchorage and another quiet night.

We had agreed a destination for Tuesday (Kames bay on Bute) but it was Elsie’s turn to choose the route and sail plan.   She elected for one more reef than I would have, but I have to confess that we made good progress, close hauled up Kilbrannan sound in a NW’ly 4 simultaneously passing Loch Ranza and the Waverly paddle steamer.  The wind backed a little to facilitate our entry into the West Kyle (more than can be said for the yacht coming out on starboard tack, who relied on us keeping out of his way, though he was clearly motor assisted).  A spirited beat up to Rubha Dubh, more than keeping our own against a following yacht carrying full sail.  We can appreciate why Clyde sailors rhapsodize about the Kyles.  Truly beautiful, especially Auchenlochan.  We have promised ourselves that, when we are too old to sail, we will buy a motor caravan and re-trace our steps, looking at the view from a land perspective.  This one area that we will definitely visit. The wind was light and fluky around Caladh, so we elected to put the sails away and motor through the narrow and winding passage past the Burnt Islands. 5 minutes later we had a following F5, so full Genoa out and an easy run down the East Kyle, round the corner and into Kames bay.  An early finish, for us, of 1515.  The pilot book suggested that we might have difficulty finding space to anchor, because of moorings but there was plenty of room.  We used a tripping line, in case of abandoned ground tackle but on hauling up the next morning all we had was a bit of weed and some of the biggest starfish we have ever seen.

It is a little amusement for us to watch how literally some sailors interpret the charts.  When we arrived at Torrisdale, there was another yacht anchored exactly over the anchor symbol in the adjacent Carradale bay, even though, with the prevailing wind, it was clearly much less comfortable than our chosen spot.  At Kames, a vintage motor yacht spent 30 minutes having 3 attempts to drop his hook on the symbol off the marina entrance, inconveniencing several others who were attempting to pass.  They are probably incredulous at our recklessness in choosing our own, unauthorized, spots.

We had appointments at Rhu on Wednesday, to speak to the engineers who would be carrying out the maintenance and modifications so, after a leisurely breakfast, we heaved up and broad reached up the Clyde in a S’ly F3-4.  The afternoon was enlivened by a visit from an old work colleague bearing designer doughnuts.  He also gave us a lift for provisioning and a guided tour of Helensburgh and Gareloch.

Thursday saw gusty W’ly winds so we motor-sailed as far as Dunoon and then close reached all the way down the Clyde and across to Arran.  We had an invite to dinner, bed and breakfast from another ex-colleague and neighbour who has moved to Brodick.  As we were going to be leaving Ruby unattended, we moored to a bouy.  We tend not to do this often as anchoring is so easy and picking up bouys can be tricky, especially in gusty F6 winds, as now.  We managed at the 3^rd attempt, put 2 sturdy lines on, inflated the dinghy (not yet named) and motored ashore.  Elsie had been a little trepidatious about this, but the promise of a break from my cooking won the day.  Colin and June treated us to an excellent meal at the Brodick Bar and a comfortable night in a room which overlooked the bay so we could check up on Ruby.

Colin had accepted the offer of a day sail and with WNW’ly F4 forecast for all day, it would have been rude not to throw a loop round Ailsa Craig and this we did, beam reaching down and back at a fine pace.  Halfway down, the chart has the legend ‘High speed craft’.  As we approached this point, I was about to complain at their absence when not one but two appeared.  One catamaran ferry and one gin palace.  Lesson learned from Kintyre, we put in an extra reef before passing behind the rock but it was not needed on this occasion.  With 5 miles to run back to Brodick, the wind veered and turned gusty, forcing us to beat up hand steered.  We anchored close inshore at 1900 and ran Colin ashore.

Family commitments mean a trip home is called for so it was back to Rhu on Saturday.  Broad reaching up under all plain sail and, for an hour, with the Cruising chute up to fully dry it after Mondays dip.  A fine weekend meant dozens of yachts in addition to the usual ferries and sailing efficiency had at times to be sacrificed for collision avoidance.  Tied up at 1430, giving time for laundry and other mundane tasks.

This trips stats:

19 nights aboard; 14 days sailing; 9 nights at anchor; 698 miles logged. 

May 2015 - part one.

In which we motor a mile, listen to some music and motor back again.

In the outside world, the price of oil has fallen; oil companies want less helicopter flying and helicopter companies want fewer pilots.  Cue agreement with my employer that I can spend a lot more time sailing.  My last week of work, the weather was perfect for a journey South with constant northerly force 4 winds and blue skies.

Accordingly, on 1st May, the first day of my retirement, we boarded the Aberdeen - Lerwick ferry with a sense of anticipation.  Not only were we (almost) free of commitments, the good citizens of Shetland had organised an international folk festival to wave us on our way.

Our first move on Saturday morning arrival was to move Ruby from the marina at Gremista to the pontoon at Albert dock to be nearer the heart of the action. A provisioning trip and we were set for the weekend.  Saturday afternoon visitors included both Luke, original crew for our delivery voyage and Ian who stood in when we were delayed.

Lerwick harbour

We had tickets for concerts that evening, Sunday lunchtime and the Sunday evening Foy, a concert in which 15 acts are bused around Lerwick in a military operation to play 15 minute slots at 3 venues.  An amazing variety of styles (not often will you see a fiddle, guitar and pipe trio followed by a troupe of acrobats who can play a Jewish folk tune in thrash metal style) but consistently high standard.  All thoroughly enjoyable though, as we had both been working early shifts and the berth at Albert dock was not the most conducive to sleep, we were drooping by midnight on Sunday.

We had, of course, been studying the weather forecast closely.  It was ever changing, the only consistency being that it would be challenging to plan and sail South.  On Monday we woke after another broken night and decided that we were not in a fit state to leave in the current conditions, so delayed for 24 hours which at least allowed us to catch up on laundry and other tasks.  Tuesday brought yet another change to the forecast.  The only sailable day in the next 5 was Saturday, and even then the wind would be right ahead.  As I had an unbreakable appointment in the South of England the following Monday, an executive decision was made to return home and try again next week.  So, back to Gremista, back on the ferry.  Fingers firmly crossed.

April 2015

We sail up to, and round Shetland, to the continued bemusement of locals.

After 2 weeks work, we caught the Saturday night ferry back to Kirkwall and Ruby, arriving back on board at midnight.  Very thankful for the central heating which got the cabin up to comfortable temperature by the time Elsie had made the bed.

We had been unable to re-fuel before departure, as the fuelling pontoon had broken loose in Spring gales and power had not yet been restored.  Volunteer staff had located a wander lead in our absence, so this was our first task, not aided by a 20 knot wind blowing us onto the berth.  Out and away, up to the North and back to Jack’s hole for the night.  Westerly winds forecast for the next few days – fair for a passage to Shetland. Much discussion as to whether we would do this in one long hop (about 75 miles) or go via Fair Isle.  The former seemed a bit far in big Atlantic swells on our first full day back and the latter a little risky since there is only one usable harbour, with a very confined anchorage and no pontoon (who would need it this early in the year?) at the pier.  In the end we decided on an early start; route to Fair Isle and, if we didn’t like what we saw, we would have sufficient daylight to make Shetland.

Up at 6 on Monday for a great sail up to Fair Isle with 2 reefs in the main giving us 8 knots plus through the water in a W’ly F5.  Round the top, to avoid the rost off the Southern tip and into North Haven.  What a lovely surprise! Beautifully sheltered and oversize fenders provided to keep us off the black rubber of the pier.  The bird sanctuary was not open (too early – again) but we had a pleasant walk up the hill to the airfield where I had once made a precautionary landing in a helicopter. 

Fair Isle - North Haven

Tuesday gave a great beam reach up to Scalloway with 2 reefs again in a WSWly F4-5.  4 Metre Atlantic swells meant that Elsie was unwilling to go below and, as they were behind the beam, gave us surges as we surfed down their fronts so that our mean speed of 8 knots occasionally increased to over 10.  George struggled a little as the passing swells also yawed us and we regretted not rigging the wind steering.  There are 3 potential entrances to Scalloway and, with the swell and lack of local knowledge, we elected to take the widest, North, entrance, around the wonderfully named island of Hildasay.  In the smoother water inside, Elsie consented to gybe round, even though we still had over 20 knots of wind; smoothly done.  And so confidence builds. 

Scalloway sailing club had a brand new pontoon.  Unusual in design, it has vertical wooden facings and its uniform, light brown colour made it look initially like a concrete pier causing us to overshoot to the marina, where there was clearly no room.  Back out and alongside the pontoon tying up to chromed cleats.  Very posh.  We had been told that we were the first ever users, so took particular care.  Unfortunately neither water nor shore power had yet been connected.  A friendly welcome and pint in the clubhouse was only slightly damped by the news that the nightly mooing fee had been increased from £10 to £15 together with a mandatory £1 per person for use of showers, even though I had already used the boats facilities.  I forbore to ask what the fee would be once power and water were available.

Christening Scalloway's new pontoon.

Wednesday, the wind had backed to SW, still F 4-5, so another wonderful sail round the coast, past Papa Stour and into Swarbacks Minn.  We have both Imray and CCC pilot books on board for Shetland and, following our Orkney experiences, are definitely taking their advice.  This was to go round both Papa Stour and Ve Skerries, giving the latter a wide berth.  Again gybed round, this time in in the full swell but again smoothly accomplished.  Broad reach across St Magnus bay, dropping the main as we approached Swarbacks head in case of gusts in the wind which was now gusting F6.  A run up Busta Voe under Genoa to Brae.  This sail furled early to prepare fenders and lines, but we still made over 4 knots under bare poles.  Into the marina, which I had watched being built 8 years earlier from my then lodging on the hill above and on to the pontoon hammerhead.  Plenty of room as the local boats were still in their winter positions on the hard standing.  Ashore for a meal at Frankie’s, Britain’s most northerly (and highly recommended) chippie, use of laundry (a snip at £1 each for washer and drier) and a beer with a couple of old colleagues.

The weather forecast again gave us a dilemma.   Strong winds were forecast; Brae is a snug haven and it was also my home-from-home for nearly 14 years.  We could easily stay here for 2-3 days.  Then the forecast changed to give us sailing winds for Thursday and Friday (although stronger on Thursday night) with the storm postponed until the weekend.  This would allow us to tick another box by rounding Muckle Flugga, the most northerly point of the U.K., overnighting in Balta Sound, and down the East coast to Burra Voe before the worst of the weather.  Phone call to Balta Sound.  Their pontoon also missing, which would mean anchoring in less than ideal location, or tying up to the pier.  The latter was definitely out and the former risky if the weather was worse than forecast.  More consultation of pilot books revealed a suitable anchorage on the east coast of the mainland, which would give us a good launch pad for Muckle Flugga if the forecast improved.  So, after just one night in Brae, we set off again.  A pleasant beat (wouldn’t have put those two words together with the previous headsail) down Busta Voe was followed by a good passage up the West coast, close hauled, then reaching and finally running before the SWly wind.  By now the swell had built to over 5 metres so Elsie was definitely at edge of comfort zone.  Round Ramna stacks (make the Needles look pretty tame), another beat down Yell sound and into Ollaberry bay for a quiet night at anchor.

Next morning, no improvement in the forecast, so heading for good shelter for the weekend is called for.  The currents dictate that the passage through the bottom of Yell Sound is best made mid-afternoon, so a lazy start and then a beat up Sullom Voe past the oil terminal.  The last time I had seen it from seaward was in the ship simulator at Warsash some 30 years ago.  Turned at Sullom jetty and ran back, following the coastal route I had flown many times in a helicopter, into Burra Voe on Yell.  Onto the hammerhead.  Oops, no cleats, posts or bollards, just hoops to tie onto.  Not the easiest things to get ropes attached to from a yacht with an appreciable freeboard and a crew who definitely does not leap ashore until all fast.  We manage.

Burra Voe.

Another delightful harbour.  Facilities, including showers and laundry with honesty box are housed in an immaculate building roofed by an inverted lifeboat from the Canberra.  The village shop is volunteer run and only opens one hour per day so we made sure that we were there at 11 the next morning.  A surprisingly good selection and reasonable prices.  The ‘pub’ is the village hall, which opens for 4 hours on a Saturday evening but we were in luck! Not only were they opening early to watch the Grand National but fish suppers were being served as well.  A good evening.

Sunday was another lazy day, just catching up on laundry and other domestic tasks.  An otter swam under the pontoon, 10 ft away from the boat but, by the time Elsie looked, it had gone.

Tuesday looked possible for another attempt at our summit, Muckle Flugga, so we repositioned back to Ollaberry for the attempt, entertaining ourselves on the way by beating right up Sullom Voe to Brae and taking the dinghy ashore for provisions.  We are experimenting keeping dinghy on the foredeck, using an 8 ft spar clipped onto the mast track and inner halliard as a crane for launch and recovery.  Seems to work quite well, but modifications will no doubt be made in time.

Tuesday – no go: winds still too strong and the Atlantic swell will have had a week of F 6-8 to build.

Wednesday, still too strong for a clockwise transit but, as the forecast is for the winds to die overnight and then to go more Northerly, we decide to go the other way about.  So, once more through Yell Sound and another spirited sail with 2, then 3 reefs in W’ly F 5-7, up to Balta Sound and anchored as far in as possible.

Thursday, another early start and motored, in light airs, round the northern tip off Unst, staying well out for the rost, across the top and, finally, Muckle Flugga.  We have now achieved East (Norfolk) and North.  Just West (St Kilda?) and South (Scillies?) to go.  Passing M.F., we unfurled full genoa, to supplement already full main (making its first appearance of the year!) and had a glorious reach back down to Yell Sound.  Motored through here, in light airs and to anchor in Hamna Voe (Yell) in time to be disturbed by the late helicopters going back to their roosts at Scatsta.

Friday, light airs.  Motored down to Lerwick.  Fuelled at Albert dock and introduced Elsie to Shetland’s answer to Harrods – Harry’s department store.  Then round to the Marina at Gremista.  Met by local who showed us a snug berth and kindly gave me a lift to replenish camping gas.  A resident of this marina - just across from the fish processors - is a seal who greets incoming boats, expecting to be fed.

Where's my fish supper?

Saturday, we were joined by Luke, a workmate and sometime Cox of Aith Lifeboat, for a day sail round Whalsay.  Enjoyable day, playing with staysail and cruising chute before dying wind forced us to motor the last few miles.  Luke had been programmed to be our 3^rd crew member on the delivery voyage, more than a year ago and was finally able to wear the new deck shoes that he had bought for the occasion.

Ruby well moored fendered, cleaned and tidied, we departed on the evening ferry back to Aberdeen for another 2 weeks work.

March 2015

We break free from the canal and head North, to the bemusement of locals.

2015 is the year, health permitting, that we spend as much time as possible on Ruby, to discover if we are really cut out for prolonged cruising.  The plan is to start out reasonably locally, on the West coast of Scotland, and spend 10 – 14 days per month on board returning to our part-time jobs for the remaining periods to keep the finances in order.  Plan ‘A’ was to move our berth from Inverness to Corpach at the West end of the Caledonian Canal and move gradually further afield.  Our Autumn cruise, when we spent most of the time planning how to arrive back in the right place at the right time with the forecast weather, showed us that this might not be the best way.  Why not see which way the weather wanted us to go and follow it instead?  Accordingly, plan ‘B’ was to head West at the earliest reasonable opportunity, early March and cruise in the shelter of the Western Isles until it was prudent to head further North.  This plan was scuppered when it was discovered, too late to position Ruby to the West, that the Canal would be closed to through traffic from early January ‘til late March.  Plan ‘C’ took us on a cruise on the more demanding East coast in March, through the canal in April and then continue as plan ‘B’.  We actually set out on this but, on the day we departed, parts of the canal were washed away by a storm and it was announced that the closure would last at least another month.  We were committed.

Our first day of ‘freedom’, the 10^th March, took us North, to Wick. Mostly broad reaching in a westerly F5 with well reefed sails.  A cracking 70 miles in the bag to set us going.  The forecast for the next couple of days was for Westerly gales, so we hunkered down and planned our crossing of the dreaded Pentland Firth for the 3^rd day.  This was forecast for light airs and so it proved.  So motored across at slack(ish) water.  Even then the currents and chop were apparent which vindicated our caution.  Motored up to St Margaret’s Hope – a beautifully sheltered anchorage.

The following day, with Southerly F5-6 winds, we played with our new Genoa.  What a difference! Even reefed, we can point to within 40 degrees of the wind and make 6-7 knots through the water.  Beating becomes almost a pleasure.  We cut some long, elegant grooves in the surface of Scapa Flow before heading into Stromness.  What a beautiful little town this is!  If the temperature were only 20 degrees warmer it would be perfect.  But then, others would think so too and it would be teeming with tourists, souvenir shops and fast food joints and it would join all those other ‘used to be perfect’ places further South.  Perhaps just as well to keep it for those prepared to wrap up warm to enjoy it.  A fish supper was called for and of the many places available, we followed the example of the locals and ate from a mobile chippy.  Good decision – excellent food and enormous portions.

Stromness

Up to this point, the medium range forecast had been for the wind to turn Northerly, facilitating a return to the mainland and an approximation to our earlier plan ‘B’, possibly leaving Ruby at Plockton.  This now changed to South Westerlies.  No problems – we are now flexible.

After a rest day, for Elsie to nurse a cold, we headed back out to sea.  An early start, to catch favourable currents through Hoy Mouth, then North up the coast. Past Mull head, round Papa Westray and into Pierowall.  Once again, we were met with surprise that anyone should be sailing this far North so early in the year.  The visitors’ pontoon was not yet in place so we tied up to an old floating oil hose which acts as a giant fender.  Only slightly to the annoyance of a local fisherman who entered the harbour an hour later, did a handbrake turn, and went round to tie up on the outside of the wall.

Tuesday saw us heading up as far North as Orkney stretches, to the North of North Ronaldsay.  S’ly F4 gave us a reasonable speed, but not so much comfort as we came out of the shelter of the islands and into the full Atlantic swell.  Our plan to pass down the Eastern side was defeated by a dying wind and a strong Northerly current, so we retreated and headed into Otterswick on Sanday for the night.  Huge anchorage area to choose from, but a low swell kept us rolling all night.

Wednesday dawned with very poor visibility and a cautious departure, making full use of plotter, radar and AIS.  Down the West of Sanday through Lashy sound.  A cursory reading of the pilot book, and current arrows on my Navionincs ap had suggested we might expect adverse currents of up to 2 knots.  There were, so engine on to assist.  3 knots, 4, 5.  Genoa away and main tightened. 6 knots. 7.  Full power and we were only creeping ahead. 25 minutes of precise steering to navigate the tightest part of the sound, then we were through.  Another lesson learned.  Read the pilot book more carefully!  Into Jack’s hole at the entrance to Whitehall to a very nice anchorage just outside the channel.  Elsie was a little concerned that we might impede the ferry, but he showed his manoeuvrability with handbrake turns round the bouys.

Thursday was supposed to be a trip down to the South end, to look at the Churchill barriers.  The weather co-operated but the engine didn’t.  Totally flat starter battery.  Rigged a jump lead from the service battery and 30 minutes later we were ready to go but with yesterday’s experience showing the importance of a reliable engine in these parts, we decided to head for Kirkwall for maintenance.  Good sail down and tied up early afternoon.  Port control had located a helpful local expert who looked at the starter battery, pronounced it duff and arranged for a new one.  He also agreed to look at our AIS which periodically trips out for no apparent reason.  The radar also trips out at sea.  Theories for this include chafing wires inside the mast and overheating after a period of operation.  Further investigation required.

Friday was a day for maintenance, with outboard, which has never run properly, away for a service and provisioning of dry stores (and some wet ones!) for next trip.

Saturday, we said goodbye to Ruby, for a couple of weeks; caught 3 busses, 1 ferry and retrieved our car from Inverness and headed home and work.

2014

A year in which damage to boat and owner was repaired by experts.

2014 was a trying year.

Our plan was to have a relaxed sail round the Solent area in February and then sail Ruby North, starting in March and then as time and weather permitted to a new home in the North East of Scotland.  It started well enough with fine conditions and little traffic to impede us.  With the newly installed heating and the cockpit tent rigged on unsailable days, we were very snug.  About 5 days to go, the weather looked favourable for a trip down to Eastbourne and back on consecutive days, so that was the plan.

Downwind

 During the first day, however, the forecast changed and, instead of North
Easterlies the following day, the wind now was going to back to North West and further in the following days.  We had no compelling reason to return to Gosport, so plan changed to be the start of the delivery voyage.  On arrival at Eastbourne, we were warned that recent storms had silted the harbour and to take extreme care.  We did and had no problems, though a following yacht grounded on soft mud and had to wait for the rising tide.  Our departure the following morning was again near low water and again we were warned of perils in the harbour.  Again we went very slowly and had no problems.  The major error was not to increase speed once outside the breakwater and the cross-current caught us, sweeping Ruby on to the bank to the North of the channel.  A departing fishing boat turned back and attempted to pull us clear but failed.  Nothing to do but lay an anchor and wait for rising tide, with life raft ready.  After about an hour of bouncing, we re-floated and proceeded to sea. The bouncing hadn’t seemed too bad and, although we wanted to have the hull checked, any reputable yard seemed as good as another so we elected to continue on voyage, to Ramsgate that day and Shotley the next.

At Shotley, we arranged for a lift out and survey the following day.  The survey showed no external damage beyond to keel paintwork, but a minor gel coat crack on the frame behind the keel mountings.  It was agreed that this was to be investigated and we went home.  The investigation showed nothing worse and we planned to re-join 2 weeks later and continue the voyage, with the assistance of a third crew member.  With 2 days to go, I phoned the boatyard only to be informed that they had found more, and worse, damage.  Bother! (To put it mildly).  4 weeks later, the work was still not complete and, with the Easter rush coming up, they could not give a firm date.  At home, I went for a routine dental check-up and got the second shock of the year.

A small lump on my gum was cancerous.  Small on the surface, but well developed in the jaw. Prognosis was not good but I was fortunate in ‘bagging’ a renowned specialist who did a remarkable job of taking spare parts from other parts of my body and rebuilding my mouth.  It did, however put me out of action for a couple of months.  I was finally fit enough to move at the end of June, as was Ruby.  Unlike me, she had been passed as stronger than new by the surveyor so, with the assistance of Elsie’s cousin and my son, we set about bringing her home.

Day one was a shake-down in fair weather up to Lowestoft.  All went well and we finished the day with a good provisioning for the coming voyage.  The plan was to sail a succession of 36 hour legs to suitable ports.  After 20 hours, with Flamborough Head coming up, we had a conference and with fair winds, fine weather and full moon all in our favour, we agreed to continue for another day.  24 hours later, abeam the Forth estuary brought the same decision and in the end we arrived at Kessock after 72 hours and 5 minutes, with 435 mile run.  An average of just over 6 knots for the voyage.  Very acceptable.  Ruby’s new home was a berth at Seaport Marina, just inside the Caledonian Canal.  Theoretically this gave us good access to both Scottish coasts within reasonable (2 hours) commuting from home.

The delivery voyage was made in a brief period of fitness before I started radio-therapy.  This took a big toll on my health again and, apart from a brief, 3 day, trip into the Moray Firth we did not leave the confines of the canal again until September.  This provided some therapy and enabled us to take some friends and family on day trips to Loch Ness or through the canal to Corpach and back.

In late September, I was finally fit enough to go to sea again and we planned a 3 week trip to the West Coast. I say planned but, at that time of year, it is the weather that does the planning and you arrange your voyaging to match.  We did plenty of sheltering from storms in the small Isles and Inner Sound but had some excellent sailing in between, mostly in strong winds.  We also discovered several new, to us, anchorages which confirmed to us what a magical cruising area this is. 

Tobermory

Another thing confirmed was that that the genoa was reaching the end of its useful working life.  A good, full, shape for downwind cruising in light airs but, once reefed just a misshapen bag unwilling to go within 60 degrees of the wind.  Accordingly we ordered a high-spec replacement, together with a full service for the main.

Back to the canal (sharing locks on return with an 80 foot Oyster) and, after just one more late cruise on Loch Ness, we tucked Ruby up for the winter.

Our first sail

Hi there, I'm the other half of this intrepid, some say foolish, duo. Lionel will probably blog all the technical details and boring stuff. Me, I'll do all the trips and gossipy bits.
Well, Ruby Tuesday was viewed, talked about, surveyed then bought all within six weeks. She was the first we saw and it was love at first sight, however, we had our sensible heads on and decided to have a look at a couple more. They were no match for our Rub. The survey was done and she was ours, yes, on a Tuesday. Traditions have to be kept up you know. Excitement was an understatement. On the flight home all we spoke about was her and what we were going to do and not do and where we were going to go and not go. I think it would probably take ten lifetimes to do all we want to do so the quicker we get started the better.
Lionel and Zac had a road trip down to Haslar marina at the end of October. They piled the car high and headed down the road stopping in various places to visit people and take part in their other love, gliding. There was a list of jobs to be done - heating installation, gas check, checks the windlass, put the cockpit tent up, buy various items and check out the collection of sails we had inherited with Ruby.
I flew down from Inverness on Tuesday afternoon hoping all the hard work was done and we could go sailing for three days. The heating and gas work was completed and the tent was up so it was all very toasty on board. The windlass wasn't playing the game and there was more shopping to do. A storm blew through on Tuesday night so we decided to spend Wednesday sorting out a few things. After tightening up the connectors the windlass paid out the complete chain and brought it back again with no problems. Sorted. We went out and bought a few more things and spent the afternoon pottering about. Nigel, the former owner, had made a lovely wooden ladder to get on and off Ruby but it had been lost in the storm so I decided to go out in the dingy and try and find it. I'm sure many a sailor had a very entertaining couple of hours that day watching me trying to row the dingy about the marina and crashing into various boats and pontoons. But I rescued the steps successfully and they were tied back into place. And very nice they looked. I did get a cheer from a crew who were tidying up their boat.
On the Thursday, we went sailing. Off the berth at 11.30, a lie in for us, and we motored to Spit Sound. The sails were hoisted at 12 and off we sailed down the Inner Swash Way, carefully keeping the monument, yellow apartment block and steeple as a transit. It was me steering so it was a bit iffy at times but we got there. We continued to sail West through the Solent initially with one reef in but it soon got shook out and we were full sail ahead. A copybook sail past Cowes, admiring a three mast schooner and two 'Challenge' ships.  Past the Needles, it was choppy but nothing Ruby or we couldn’t handle and the tide was with us so fast progress was made.  As it was our first time sailing her we carefully passed the markers up the Swash Channel into Poole. It was fun finding the appropriate buoys and dodging all the big ships going into the harbour. It wouldn't have looked good if any damage was done on our first trip, better leaving that for our sixth or seventh one. The sails came down at 17.30 and we motored into Poole Quay Haven with Lionel only taking over at the entrance of the marina, not bad for a lady driver, eh? We moored with some help and set Ruby up for the night.

                                         Elsie on a beam reach.


The log was written up, sailed 5 1/2 hours, motored 1. Overall we covered 34 miles under sail and 7 miles motoring with a S backing SE wind, 5 decreasing to 4. All in all the day had been magnificent with Ruby not letting us down. All our expectations had been realised, she just doesn't look good she sails fantastic. George, the autopilot, is a bit of a letdown though, not very good at holding the course with the wind behind and we really do need to read up on all the gadgets but a most enjoyable day.
Next decision, where to eat? Portsmouth Hoy was chosen. Very good food, but small portions and very expensive. Not the best choice. As we go on with this blog the reader will realise that both Lionel and I do like our food and few beers to wash it down.
The next morning we were off berth at 9. Have to catch the tide????  Can see this is going to be the wakening call many a morning. We motored to Sand Banks and out the East Looe channel. The sails were hauled up at 0945. Force 5 to 6 wind and it was very choppy.  Pointed Ruby towards the Needles with two reefs in and off we went. Fantastic beam reach most of the way, pictures of Elsie with a huge beaming smile were taken. Passed the Fairway Buoy at 1115, yes we were going THAT fast and shook out one reef. Maybe once we get used to her we will not be as cautious but for now we’re looking after our baby. We reached St Catherine’s Point at 1240 on a close reach. ‘George’ behaved himself, yippee!!!!! We did some theory revision on the way, you know the conversation,
Lionel, ‘What does that buoy mean?’ ‘
Me, ‘Who knows, we’ll just stay clear of it?’
Lionel, ‘But what side do we stay clear off’
Me, ‘Oops, never thought about that’
So a pleasant hour was had reviewing knowledge of buoys and markers and rules of the road. Ok, it was pleasant for Lionel but trying to dredge up facts for me is sometimes very painful. I think the final report would have read must try harder.
Now, a word to the sympathetic ear, I suffer badly from sea sickness, usually only for the first few days. I was the tiniest bit worried that a started being ill today because the sea was rough and we were rolling from side to side which I find the worst movement so I insisted on hogging the steering as, I found out from experience, that concentrating helps. It worked; even Lionel admitted afterwards he felt rather queasy at points during the day.
Off we went, pointing at Bembridge on a beam reach then broad reach as we got closer. Approaching Portsmouth we passed several anchored tankers. This called for experimenting with the AIS on the chart plotter and soon we discovered how to identify them. We decided to drop the main and run with the Genoa into the harbour. Then we noticed this huge, and I mean huge, container ship steaming up the channel heading for Southampton. It was identified as Kula Lupa Express and it was a unanimous decision that we get out of the way. So instead of lining up with the Spinnaker Tower and sailing towards Portsmouth we lurked around the Forts and waited for this monstrosity to pass. Lionel and Zac had a boy’s conversation about how many containers were on it and how many tonnes that was, way above my head, I just admired the pretty colours of the boxes piled up high.

Once it was safe, we headed into the harbour, keeping well away from the Navy side of the port, don’t want to get on the wrong side of them, and dropped the sail at the end of the berthing channel. Lionel decided to try and go head first into the berth, instead of backing up the channel. Sucess!! I was impressed with his driving and Zac's tying up techniques. I just stood there looking pretty and doing as I was told. The distance logged was an impressive 48miles, sailing 45 miles and a mere 3 miles motored.
As we were leaving Ruby till February there was a few jobs to be done.  The biggest was taking down and storing the Genoa. Thank you for the help of a kind marina worker who helped us pull it down. It was tidily stored in the cockpit locker. We did three laps of the deck to make sure everything was secure then our minds wandered to edibles. Chinese was on the menu and I would highly recommend Go Kitchen, the take away opposite the back gate of the marina. Cheap and very good food.
The next morning it was an early start again. Another round of inside and out of Ruby, making sure everything was done. The forecast was bad, a storm of Biblical proportions was due to hit the South of England. Up here in Scotland we would call it a wee bit wind so everything was checked and doubled checked and checked again. The one thing I forgot to do was turn off the gas which Lionel rectified quickly. I think a check list of things to do when we are leaving her would be good. We eventually said our last goodbyes to Ruby and Haslar, till February.
The few days aboard Ruby cemented the feeling she was the one. Everything was right, the accommodation, the sailing, the space, almost everything. The forward cabin looks as if it may be rearranged to give us more space for the planned longer trips and when we eventually retire and start living on her. And the large cockpit locker needs to be sorted out with the heating ducts boxed in so they don’t get damaged and more structured storage instead of everything being thrown in. Our instincts were correct. She’s the one and I, personally, can’t wait to get her up to the North of Scotland in March and get some serious west coast sailing done. The winter months will be spent pouring over chart plotter and other manuals and planning our trips in February and March. What’s best, the planning or doing? A question to ponder over.
‘Goodbye Ruby Tuesday’ for now.

Elsie