Never underestimate
the intelligence of a dolphin. Two days ago we set out from Rum Cay
to Long Island with a northerly force 4 to 5. Two reefs in the main
and one in the jib we bombed along to the top of Long Island. There
is a huge reef right along the top of the island so we stood off nearly 4 miles until we could turn and under jib alone we started to sail down
the west coast. Our chart plotter uses Navionic charts, which are
pretty much useless close to land in The Bahamas. Lionel has Navionic
sonar charts loaded on his phone which we use in tricky areas. They
are usually good but never spot on as there is a lot of shifting sand
banks in this area. He had identified a good channel to follow down
towards Thompson Bay, a settlement about half way down the west coast
which had everything a cruiser needed after three weeks in the Out
Islands – food, laundry, liquor store, social interaction with
other yachties, did I mention food. By now it was mid afternoon and
we were not sure if we would get to Thompson Bay before the sun went
down. Lionel is always quite apprehensive about going into a new
anchorage without good light. He had identified another potential
anchorage about ten miles away which might be OK at a push (which
means it will be very rolly and no real shelter from the wind but we
would be safe).
At this point we
were joined by a single dolphin. This is unusual as dolphins are very
sociable creatures and usually travel in pairs if not whole shoals of
up to 20 or 30. They love to play with the water stream coming of
our bow and it is great fun watching their antics, coming alongside
the boat to make sure you are watching then doing some acrobatics in
the slip stream of the bow, then ducking down and appearing at the
stern to wallow in your applause and praise. This can go on for an
hour or more depending on whether they have fed already or if the
boat is going fast enough for them to be kept amused. This single
dolphin behaved oddly from the start. He was not interested in the
bow slip stream and he kept on coming up each side of the boat making
sure we could see him clearly. This behaviour went on for about ten
minutes then he started to drop back behind us, appearing at the side
of the boat then dropping behind us again, getting further and
further behind each time. Eventually he disappeared.
Not thinking much
more of the incident we carried on. About ten minutes later Lionel
started to look worried. Both of the electronic charts indicated we
should be in 9 metres of of water but the depth sounder was saying
three. The minimum depth Ruby can sail in is about 2 metres but we
like to have a metre above that in case of rocks or other hazards on
the sea bed. The conclusion was we were going through a little
shallow area and the depth would rise in a few minutes. It didn’t
and we started to notice breaking water to our port side which
indicates very shallow water or a reef. There was no reef indicated
on either chart so we concluded it was shallow water. The sail was
hastily put away and the engine, which we had started as soon as we
had identified a potential problem, was brought into use. Lionel
quickly turned Ruby round and back tracked along the same track we
had come in on knowing that although it was shallow it was deep
enough for Ruby.
After the initial
shock had worn off we started to look around for other potential
overnight anchorages in the area. There was a marina close by but the
reviews indicated it only had 5 foot depth in the approach channel so
we couldn’t go there. The decision to try on the lee shore of a
tiny island near Dove Cay was made and we cautiously headed that way.
About a mile into the journey we suddenly went aground in 1.2 metres
of water. We were stuck fast. The good news was the tide was rising
so all we had to do was wait. We stuck out the anchor to stop the
current pulling us further onto the sand bank and waited. After about
an hour the depth started to go up and we floated off. I hauled up
the anchor then became lookout on the bow as we inched forward to our
destination. We did get there eventually and anchored in 2.9 metres
of water, a little skinny for my liking but we were safe.
After a very large
rum we started to talk about what had happened and what we should
have done. Of course we should have turned back much sooner, when we
say that the depth on the chart and the depth on the sounder were
miles apart. In fact we should have turned back when the dolphin
appeared. Was he trying to tell us something? Are these mammals so
attuned to their environment and everything that is going on in it
that they know when other creatures, including men in big boats, are
in danger? In hindsight the dolphin was definitely warning us about
the shifting sand. He knew the boat and we were in danger. The fact
he made sure we were aware of his presence and started to drop back
as we got nearer and nearer the danger is enough proof to me.
This is not the
first time something like this has happened to us. The first time was
many years ago in Scotland. We were approaching Gairloch after a very
long wet beam reach across from Harris. There is a beautiful little
anchorage tucked away in a corner of the Loch which we heading for.
As we were about to drop the sails and start to motor in a single
dolphin appeared and started playing with the bow slip stream. He was
doing all the usual things, swimming along beside us then went of to
do some acrobatics, dancing with the water in front of us then back
to make sure were paying attention. This continued for about five
miles as we approached the anchorage. He stayed with us right to the
anchorage then watched us as we put the sails away and tidied up. As
we sat down and opened our first can of the night he had one last
look and off he went. His duty had been done. He had seen us safely
into a safe anchorage and we weren’t about to move. I still swear
when he heard the first can pop open he left. A few days later we
were in a pub in Mull with loads more sailors and I told my quirky
little story to the group. Another sailor piped up saying the same
thing had happened to him.
Well, what do you
make of these two stories, coincidence or are we dealing with a
creature far more intelligent than man? I us the word intelligence
not in the sense of being able to solve huge mathematical problems or
build great structures. I use the term meaning they are at one with
nature and know what is good and what is bad and try to help others
who don’t. Maybe there is hope for the world. Maybe man is not the
future and Darwin was right. The next evolutionary step is already
developing and it will be that step that will save the world from
disaster not man. We have had our moment of glory but now it’s a
matter of survival of the fittest and man is not stepping up to the
plate and proving their worth so we will eventually die out and in
another million years man will be referred to as the dinosaurs are
now. Dolphins will ask “I wonder what natural disaster killed them,
was it a meteor hitting earth and changing the climate so drastically
that they could not survive?” No, we know it was our own stupidity
and selfishness that ruined the planet for our species and we have to
accept the inevitable. We are on our way out!!!!
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