September 2017

In which we make our way slowly, and with some trepidation, back to the Chesapeake.

September opened with Ruby and Lionel in Newport, Rhode Island and Elsie in Scotland.

On the 1^st, I did my first ever solo voyage with Ruby. We had anchored at the edge of the mooring field but, with our scope of 35 metres, we were swinging to within 10 metres of a long-term resident (even though the harbour rules state a maximum stay of 2 weeks). Stronger winds were forecast for later in the week so I took the opportunity of a quiet spell to pick up, move the anchor 20 metres and re-lay it with 45 metres out. Sounds easy but, as the navigation and driving is done from one end of the boat and the anchor handling from the other, it was an interesting little challenge and I was pleased when it went smoothly. I then looked at the longer range forecast and was alarmed to see that, in 10 days’ time, hurricane Jose was predicted to come close, giving 70 knot gusts. Weather watch was going to be an obsession for the next few weeks.

Schooner in Newport.

I did a longer solo voyage on the 4^th, taking Ruby 15 miles up Narrangasett Bay to Apponaug, taking a marina berth for the night as Elsie was flying back into Providence airport and late night trips in the dinghy didn’t seem like a good idea. All went well though, with variable winds, I motored most of the way. I took a taxi to the Airport, arriving at the scheduled ETA of the flight and was just settling down for the 2 hour wait expected for U.S. border procedures when Elsie appeared. The flight had been 30 minutes early and immigration had been a breeze. This gave us time to discuss other breezes and think about our medium term plans. Ruby still hadn’t had had her haul out and was slowing down with barnacles on her bottom; if strong winds were forecast, Newport would be a good place to sit them out; we were at a friendly, affordable marina / boatyard. In the morning, I had a word with the manager and yes, they could fit us in; we could stay on board and do our own work. They were busy today, Tuesday; Wednesday looked wet but Thursday had high tide (needed for shallow water at the boat lift) at 09:00 with fine weather so we made it a plan to lift her then, putting her back on Friday or Saturday.

Elsie had, by this time, not sailed for 10 days and was getting withdrawal symptoms so we left Apponaug and headed back to Newport. It was calm in the marina but our forecast said it was F4 – 5 outside so we put in 2 reefs. The forecast was correct and we had a spirited beat down river. With 4 miles to go, the wind increased to F6, so we put in the 3^rd reef. The tide also turned against us so it was a slow (over the ground) finish but it blew away the cobwebs. Back into our now familiar anchorage and a quick dinghy ashore to top up on food essentials and some supplies for the work on Ruby’s bottom, getting back on board 30 minutes before a thunderstorm hit. Having had 5 – 10 knots more wind than ideal on the way down the river, the following day going the other way had 5- 10 knots too little and we ghosted up in a F3 to anchor off Goddard Memorial State Park. A wide open anchorage and we took the opportunity to reverse roles and let Elsie do the driving. The anchor failed to bite, first time, so she had a second shot.

Out she comes

We arrived at the boat-lift on the dot of 9 on Thursday to find them ready for us. The lift went smoothly but, as it was a small hoist, we had to reverse in to clear the forestay. This left our wind generator the wrong side of the cross beam and, once in position, it had to come down. An easy job using an ancient, wheezing, scissor lift. The yard pressure washed the bottom and it was then down to us. We anticipate coming out again next summer and were using paint that was well over its shelf life so I didn’t go mad on the rubbing down, just making sure that it was clean where the lifting slings had been, there were no rough spots and no barnacle remains. Now for the paint. If you look back 27 months, you will see that we had had to buy a 25 litre tin in Rhu and had been carrying 10 litres with us ever since. This was stored in 2 fuel cans in a plastic box in our big locker and I had inverted them a couple of times over the last few weeks hoping to unsettle any sediment. On opening the first can, I poured out a litre of light brown fluid, then a litre of dark brown sludge, leaving 3 litres of solids in the bottom. Please, Mr yard manager, where can I buy some more paint? At any other yard I have visited, this would have been answered with: I can get you paint, at a price or a shrug of ‘not my problem’ but Barry, bless him, not only said that mine was probably recoverable but produced an electric stirrer and bucket and then proceeded to help me, both with the initial stir and the inevitable clean up. It took an hour of slicing open cans, scraping them out and stirring, using up 90% of my cleaning up fluid as thinners but, by 13:00, I had 10 litres of what looked like suitable paint. 6 hours, and 1½ coats later, I was down to 2 litres, well spattered and aching so called it a night. Elsie, meanwhile, had been attacking the waterline, which had a brown stain from our stay in Long Island Sound. This reacted well to her ministrations and, with a coat of wax the following morning came up almost like new. The team came round early on Friday, to move the props, so that I could paint where they had rested against the hull. That done, new anodes on the propeller and a couple of other minor bits and pieces and we were ready to go. We needed at least half tide for re-launch but, even with re-fitting the wind generator, we made it with 30 minutes to spare and headed back down the river to Newport, this time with a civilised 10-15 knots of wind, to anchor once again in our, by now, familiar spot.

Bottom painting

We were still actively monitoring hurricanes. Irma was now battering the Caribbean and heading towards mainland America. Jose was circling Bermuda and looked like being a bigger problem for us. Newport would be a very safe place to sit it out but all models showed that it was unlikely to come ashore in the New York area so we decided to proceed with caution. On Saturday, there was forecast to be a NW’ly F3, so we had a prompt start and headed down to Block Island. The wind started as forecast and we made good progress under main and Cruising Chute but it died with 5 miles to go so we finished up motoring. The anchorage was much less crowded than it had been a couple of months earlier so we found a good spot and only afterwards noticed that we were close to ‘Ocean Diamond’ FB friends of Elsie. We caught up with them later, on going ashore in the dinghy. The island itself was a so-so tourist place, but we enjoyed a walk and a little top-up on provisions. Sunday morning looked promising, so another 07:00 call and off we went back towards Long Island Sound, with multiple options. The first, at Stonington, would have given us 15 miles of progress, but, for once, the wind was better than forecast so this was quickly rejected and we adjusted course to pass south of Fishers Island. We managed to catch full flood at the race and, for a while were touching 10 knots over the ground. By 12:00, we had rejected New London; 14:00 Connecticut River and, with the wind finally dying, made it to Duck Island having Achieved 43 miles. Monday, again, was kind to us. On the forecast, we thought that we would not make it past New Haven but a few knots more of wind and a following current helped us back to Port Jefferson. Our luck ran out on Tuesday and, after sitting out a morning calm, we had a very slow sail on port tack up to the Norwalk Islands then starboard back to within 3 miles of Huntington harbour. 24 miles through the water in 6 hours but only 15 achieved over the ground. Wednesday morning was also calm and I decided to change the fuel filters on the main engine, an overdue job which I had only done once before myself. It all went better than expected until I tried to re-prime the lines and found that I was unable to in the approved fashion. After an hour of struggle, I gave up and tried an unapproved method (cranking the engine until it fired) which, fortunately, worked. Wind still failed to materialise, so we upped anchor and moved to within easy dinghy reach of Northport for a walk and a little light shopping, including a very nice gelato.

Sunset, Block Island

Wind was forecast to be better on Thursday afternoon so we picked up and headed out at 11:00. It turned out to be light and variable, giving us very slow progress until Elsie gave up, put the genoa away and started the engine, at which point a steady SW3 sprang up and gave us a very pleasant sail back to Port Washington. ‘Hurricane watch’ suggested that we were unlikely to be heading south of New York for at least a week, giving us the prospect of a relaxed few days. Friday was spent on domestics: Elsie did the laundry and, while it was washing, we stocked up on heavy stuff: beer, fruit juice, milk etc. as the supermarket is close to the dinghy dock. I ran that back back to Ruby while she looked after the drying. On return, I took a slightly more direct route and found a rock with the propeller of the dinghy’s outboard. This sheared the drive pin. We carry a spare but the toolkit was with Elsie, so I had to row back to the dock. On removing the prop, I discovered that both ends of the shear pin had been bent and couldn’t remove it and after half an hour of struggling gave up and started a long row back. Passing a marina, I tried their workshop. With proper tools (big hammer) it took them about 2 minutes for the job – hurrah! We still had more shopping to do: fresh food, a couple of bits from the chandler and maybe a new saucepan or two from a home-wear store, but we were going to be here for days so didn’t bother with the 3^rd run.

Freedom tower

On Saturday, we took the train into NY City and did a self-guided tour of lower Manhattan – the financial district and World Trade Centre. This latter has been very well made over – all the more impressive for being understated, (apart, of course, from the ‘Freedom Tower) not something you necessarily associate with NYC. On the train home, looking forward to a few relaxing days, we discovered that our route through New York was going to be blocked for most of the week, as it passes by the United Nations building and the annual General Assembly was happening. On rising, on Sunday, there looked like a window to travel further south on Wednesday or Thursday which we would miss if we stayed where we were. The worst winds on Tuesday would be 30-35 knots and there were anchorages where we could sit that out. The currents on the East river (important, as the reach over 5 knots) were good for an immediate departure, so a rapid decision was made to go. 5 hours later, we were at anchor near Sandy Hook, poised for a southern transit. Ashore, for provisions, and back. Check on the weather and… all change. Jose was now forecast to come closer, then wander about for a week before returning, closely followed by Maria. No realistic prospect of heading south for at least a week, our current anchorage was not suitable for forecast winds and we we hadn’t got our new saucepans. Up on Monday to re-trace 12 miles we had done the day before and anchor off Coney Island. Not scenic and no facilities but giving good protection. For the exercise, we laid out 2 anchors with plenty of scope – enough for 3 times the wind expected.

Anchorage secure, not scenic.

The wind never rose above 25 knots and we were very comfortable, though the sanitation department upwind of us made it’s presence known. Jose behaved himself and by Wednesday 20^th, we could see a chance to sail down the coast to Delaware bay. We wanted a daylight arrival but it was only about 120 miles so an afternoon departure was planned. We started picking up at 14:00 but our new Fortress anchor had buried itself deeply into heavy mud and, with 20 knots of wind still blowing, lifting it by hand was a tough job, taking the best part of an hour. and not doing my back any favours. We were eventually under way at 15:00 and headed out past Sandy Hook, with just the genoa set as we expected to be downwind all the way. The wind continued Northerly, easing from F5 to F4, giving us 5 – 6 knots, with just more swell than we had become accustomed to in our sheltered sailing over the last few months. We arrived at Cape May at 14:00 on the 21^st and proceeded into the anchorage, only to find it occupied by dredging equipment and made a rapid decision to exit and cross the mouth of the Delaware to the breakwater anchorage at Cape Henlopen. This took another couple of hours but did provide complete shelter just in time for 6 O’Clock drinks.  We wsh to return to the Caribbean for the winter and the wind was perfect for the next leg down to Norfolk, Va but our insurance provides no named storm cover south of 35 North until 1st November so we have another month + to spend in the Chesapeake area. 

Delaware bay is not very yacht friendly and the wind was going to blow straight down it for the next few days so, on the 22^nd, we had a day of motoring. Probably foolishly, we took advantage of the current to travel up in the morning but this gave us wind against tide and an uncomfortable passage. Much of the way we were accompanied by Ocean Diamond 2, who had sat out Jose in Port Washington and then made the journey in one go. By lunchtime, we were fed up and diverted into one of the few available anchorages at Cohansey cove. We had to weave our way in past shallow patches and a profusion of crab pot markers but found a good spot and a comfortable night. The next morning, we left near low water, which made the initial navigation even more interesting but the wind was lighter and we had a much more comfortable motor-sail up to Delaware City. By now, having missed a planned provisioning at Cape May, and not taken water since our haul-out we were running a little short of supplies, so anchored at Delaware and took a cab 8 miles to the nearest supermarket. Back on board and immediately transited the Delaware and Chesapeake Canal, stopping halfway through for fuel and water. The D & C is a full ship sized canal and I was pleased to enter ahead of a tug and tow which had come down the river at 5 knots. Not so pleased once he entered the canal and increased to 9 knots. We pulled over to the side and slowed to let him through. Once clear of the canal, we planned to anchor at Bohemia river. The depth on the chart looked adequate, though there was a warning of shoaling reported over 30 years earlier. These reports proved accurate and we couldn’t find a way to our chosen spot, so had to anchor closer to the main channel than we would have chosen but, once the weekend power boaters had put their toys away, it was quiet enough.

Look behind you!

No wind on Sunday, so a leisurely breakfast then a motor down the Elk river, left hand down a bit and up the Sassafras to Frederick Town. Here we anchored next to Ocean Diamond and settled down for a few days of calm. Monday morning, we took the dinghy ashore and, eventually, found somewhere to leave it at the nearest marina. The lad at the dock was very helpful and pointed out the wash-rooms, laundry, etc. We checked these out on our way and popped into the office, hoping to make friends and, maybe, get an internet key. We wee successful on both counts, the dragon lady informing us clearly that facilities were for marina guests only (not unreasonable for the showers, but the laundry was at commercial rates). As her window overlooked said facilities we had snookered ourselves. So it goes. We did manage to get the internet key from the lad on the dock but it was super-slow. Much of the afternoon was spent assisting Derek, on OD2, cutting a replacement bow-roller to size and re-fitting it. The remainder was spent socially. On Tuesday, we joined Derek and Leanne on a walk to the village of Galena for a little shopping. Since the supermarket owner offered to transport our purchases back to the dinghy, I took the opportunity to buy a couple of cases of beer for the locker. The afternoon was spent in rectifying dinghy propulsion problems. A pip pin had popped out of one of the oars a few weeks earlier, (steel pin corroding aluminium tube). I had found that one and re-fitted it in a new hole. The same now happened with the other oar (failed stitch-in-time) and this time the pin got lost. Derek offered to make a new one, using a suitable bolt but, while running it over to him, the outboard failed. Failure was traced to water in fuel so a gallon of petrol, bought in the Bahamas, was condemned. Elsie gallantly tested the repair by dinghying ashore to dump rubbish and get a couple of cans of water.

Wednesday promised a sailing wind so we lifted anchor at 0850 and managed to sail back down the Sassafras and south down the Elk, to anchor in Worton Creek, finding a large bay to sunbathe in for the warm afternoon. Thursday, we continued towards Kent island. The plan was to pass round the eastern side of this and anchor in prospect bay. Just as we were about to commit to this, I noticed that, at well as a fixed bridge, with 65 ft clearance, there was a bascule bridge with 18 ft. Not knowing opening procedure for this, we shied away and re-planned for somewhere with no access problems. Within 10 minutes, Elsie discovered that the problem bridge opened every 30 minutes but we were now committed the other way. Our new anchorage was in Whitehall bay, in a very up-market suburb of Annapolis. Very scenic and peaceful.

Time for a bit of planning. We are hoping to spend several months in the U.K. next summer and, not having a home there, are thinking of house/pet sitting. To trial this, Elsie had looked to see if anyone wanted this service in the Washington area while I made my periodic trip to Scotland at the end of October. They did! A very nice looking condo, with black lab in Bethesda, 5 miles north of the centre. We got a prompt reply and contacted the owner by phone. It transpired that she had already got someone to cover these dates but would we be available for an earlier weekend? Yes, it would fit nicely with our visit to the Annapolis boat show. She now contacted us again, saying that she had decided to take her dog with her, but would honour her offer to ’fellow sailors’. It didn’t take much thinking to realise that the obvious quid pro quo was an offer of some sailing. We quickly agreed that Saturday looked like a good day and we managed to find a park with a usable dinghy dock for her to join us. Another leisurely sail brought us 5 miles up the South River to Harness Creek, arriving early, to make sure that the arrangement would work. A pleasant walk through the park took us to shops for a little provisioning.

Sussane joined us promptly at 09:00 on Saturday. The wind was light in the creek but forecast to be stronger in the main river, so we put 2 reefs in the main before departure. This proved wise, as it was 20 gusting 25 outside. I was a little concerned, at first, that it might prove a little strong for our guest but she was obviously enjoying it so we sailed close hauled up past the main channel bridges, then broad reached back down to Whitehall bay for lunch. Lunch over, we broad reached back down to the South River, with Susanne hand steering most of the way. A very enjoyable day. And so the month ended with us snug in Harness Creek, with only about 5 miles to go to our next planned spot for the boat show and our trip to Washington D.C.

The wind offshore continues to be from the north, which would give us a good passage down, but we are still limited by insurance cover for another month.

Monthly distance: 564