June 2015

 In which we behave (almost) like yotties on a summer cruise.

After a week away, we returned to find that summer had arrived on the Clyde.  Temperatures soaring to the mid ‘teens and light winds.  We had no firm plan.  Just wished to explore and return to Rhu in time for our planned maintenance.

We got on board Sunday mid-afternoon and, with light winds forecast for the week, we wanted to take advantage of the pleasant NNwly wind.  So, after provisioning, watering and fuelling, we cast off and had a pleasant beat down Kilcreggan reach and up Holy Loch.  Private moorings have taken up most of the available anchorage but, after a little searching, we found a comfortable spot.

A light northerly sprang up on Monday morning.  We weight anchor at 0930 and put up the cruising chute for a gentle sail down the Clyde.  By 1300, the wind was backing to NW’ly, so up with the main and continued on a broad reach.  At 1400, with an increase to F3-4, we dropped the chute and continued under main and genoa.  Once past the southern tip of Bute, the wind increased to F5, so we put in a reef and had a great reach down to Lamlash bay.  Once again, we defied convention by dropping our hook rather than picking up a mooring.

Tuesday, there was a very light southerly.  Not really suitable for sailing but we had no-where to go and all the time in the world to get there so we picked up at mid-day and beat out past the southern end of Holy island and down the coast of Arran.  The wind was forecast to be light northerly overnight and we planned to anchor off Kildonan for the night but, just as we got there, a brisk SW’ly sprung up so we reversed our effort of the past 2 hours and, in 20 minutes, sailed back to the East of Pladda and dropped the anchor there instead.  Total achieved distance for the day – 7 miles, which sets a new low record.

We continued our circumnavigation of Arran on Wednesday in, mostly, very light winds.  During the one good hour of NW’ly 3-4 we were passed by the ‘Huckleberry’, a 40m superyacht.  We hoped that she would spread her wings and sail but she just carried on motoring, heading for Northern Ireland.  Anchored again in our favoured spot at Torrisdale bay, only to see a brisk Northerly spring up and continue late into the evening.

Flat calm Thursday morning led us to motor the 13 miles to Lochranza, launch Rubette (the dinghy) and row ashore for lunch and much-needed internet.  Lunch over, we continued North, this time under sail, into Loch Fyne, anchoring at Ardmarnock bay.

Friday, we continued North, initially beating into a light N’ly then running before a building SW’ly up to Inverary then back to Creggans for the night.  We treated ourselves to a run ashore for dinner at the Creggans Inn and regretted it.  Very poor food and over-priced. 

No wind on Saturday compelled us to motor for a couple of hours as we now had a target of getting back to Rhu for Monday but, on passing the narrows a consistent N’ly 2, occasionally 3, meant that we could sail down to Asgog bay for the night. For the first time since entering the Firth of Clyde, we saw an appreciable number of yachts today, but only about 1 in 5 was actually sailing.  Maybe it’s us.

An E’ly 3 on Sunday morning meant that we could sail, close-hauled, down to the southern tip of Bute.  Here the wind died and we motored for an hour until a N’ly 2-3 sprang up and we beat our way up to Dunoon.  Again plenty of other yachts and this time about 50% were sailing.  We had to motor the last 8 miles ourselves and anchored in Rosneath bay, just opposite Rhu.

On Monday morning there was much activity with tugs and landing craft full of marines heading up Gairloch so we scooted ASAP across to Rhu in case there was going to be nuclear submarine activity and we got told to stay put.  A flat calm meant that we could drop the genoa and de-rig the main in a leisurely fashion.  The rest of the day was spent disconnecting electrics, taking off the boom and slackening the standing rigging in preparation for dis-masting.

Tuesday, Ruby got lifted out to spend the next 10 days in maintenance, just as 25% of Britain’s nuclear deterrent steamed down Gairloch, accompanied by the aforementioned tugs, landing craft and police boats.  

May 2015 - part 2

In which we start heading south.

After a week away, we arrived back on the ferry at 0730 on the 13^th.  The forecast for the next 2 days was excellent, with NNW’ly F 4 - 5 and fine weather.  As we had never done more than day sails with just the 2 of us, we decided to take this opportunity to test our ability to make a long passage.  Lerwick to Stornaway is 210 miles and, once Sumburgh rost has been negotiated, reasonably hazard free. 36 – 40 hours seemed a reasonable estimate so after a quick provisioning trip we cast off and headed South, full genoa giving us over 7 knots.  4 hours later we altered course to WSW and hoisted a well reefed main.  Still 7 knots.  We were hugging ourselves in glee as we confirmed our plans and set watches.  Elsie was to take the next watch off and went below.  She complained of an upset stomach but I, wishfully, thought that this was minor and continued on track.  It was not and she became very ill with symptoms of severe food poisoning (you don’t want the details!) and it became obvious that she would not be able to contribute further to this voyage so, at 1800, I made the decision to divert into South Bay, North Ronaldsay, arriving at 2100 at a very quiet and straightforward anchorage.

Another experiment for this trip was wind steering.  We had played with in light airs last Autumn but not used it for real.  If we are ever to make ocean passages, it will be essential for power consumption, if nothing else.  Accordingly, we shipped the rudder before departure and mounted the wind vane once in open water.  Despite a following swell, it kept a reasonable course and our confidence grew.  The auto-pilot is George, so the wind steering needed christened.  Georgina? No.  Harriet (Hydrovane) seems more appropriate.  We are confident that she will be Hattie in no time.

Hattie

Elsie was still fragile the following morning so, after a late start we headed through the islands.  The wind had veered to E’ly 3 so the cruising chute came out and gave us a good 6-7 knots towards Rapness Sound.  We arrived at the narrows a little late for slack water and doused the chute to motor through.  A good decision as, 2 minutes after re-deploying it, a gust broke the weak link at the head and we had to retrieve it from the sea.  After a fresh water rinse and a while under genoa, it went up again until we were past Rousay and could head south on a beam, then close reach down to Hoy Mouth and into Stromness.

The next 3 days were forecast for strong W’lys so, rather than knock ourselves out with Elsie still recovering, we decided to do what cruisers do and relax.  We even hired a car on the Saturday and did a tour of the mainland, ticking off the must-sees of the Italian Chapel, Scara Brae, the ring of Brodgar .

Monday saw us well rested so we decided to attempt a non-stop to Stornaway, now just 110 miles away.  The wind was lighter than ideal, NNW’ly F2 but at least we should have a comfortable passage and we had plenty of fuel.  Hoy Mouth currents and the desire for a daylight arrival dictated an 1100 departure so we had a relaxed start.  Once clear of the mouth, the full main went up and we alternately beam reached in light airs or motor-sailed when even these failed.  As Elsie had never been in sole charge before, I decided on very short, 2 ½ hour, watches.  While neither of us would get a proper sleep, we could at least take turns napping and, hopefully be reasonably alert for arrival.  This worked well and, by midnight Elsie was making and executing decisions on sail plan and traffic avoidance.  We rounded Cape Wrath at 2200 and by 2300 the wind had settled to a steady NW’ly 3-4 so we continued through the night on a beam reach with a single reefed main and full genoa.  We rounded the Eye peninsula at 0530 and, close hauled, reached the entrance at 0700.  Down sails and motor in to the marina, with very clear directions from harbour control.  We were surprised to be met on the pontoon at 0730 by a representative of the port bearing gifts, including a calendar and a miniature of whisky.  Heads down for a catch-up on sleep.  A visit from an old flying colleague and a little light shopping filled the day.

Wednesday, we were off berth at 0840, heading south towards Loch Skiport on South Uist.  The forecast was for NW’ly 4-5, backing SW’ly later.  The NW’ly lasted about 40 minutes then we had SW’ly 2-3 for the rest of the day.  Our ambitions grew less, via Loch Eport on N. Uist and then Dunvegan on Skye.  This has been a planned destination on at least 2 previous cruises and we finally made it after a tortuous beat past Waternish Point turned into a glorious beam reach up Loch Dunvegan.  Information on moorings and anchorage is rather scarce, but we found a good spot and put out lots of chain, expecting a blow in the night.  A the tide went out, we discovered that as well as obvious mooring bouys (obvious, but unknown as to owner or maintenance history), there were 2 that had been submerged at high water and we must have been very close to running over one of these while manouvering – gulp!

Dunvegan Castle 

Thursday, we should have got the dinghy out and done the tourist thing round Dunvegan castle, but neither of us could quite work up the enthusiasm with 25 knot winds and frequent showers, so a lazy day instead catching up on log books etc.

Cloud on Skye

Although Harriet had performed well on the first day, I was concerned to see that not only did the bolts holding her to the hull need tightening but that the sideways stresses on the upper mounting were flexing the skin of the gas locker and possibly stressing the lower attachment point on the skin of the steering flat.  This means that we don’t have the confidence to use her again until we have reinforced these areas.  On-going electrical problems have meant that we were considering some shore maintenance and this is now a priority.  We have booked into the yard at Rhu for the second half of June to get this done, so we now have a medium term goal.

Friday brought fair weather again, so close reach out of Loch Dunvegan and then down the coast of Skye, broadening to pass the Small Isles.  We routed between Canna and Oigh Sgeir, which can be a rough stretch with shallow banks after a long fetch from the west but, with only a force 4 and a following current, it was kind to us. We had tried to avoid Tobermory, as we seem to always end up here, but it is just so conveniently located and, once again its magnet worked on us.  Tied up at 2040 after 13 ½ hours and 83.5 miles logged.

Tobermory

A late start on Saturday, to catch the southerly tidal flow through Mull Sound, allowed provisioning and laundry.  We had multiple optional destinations: Loch Aline (too early to stop), Loch Spelvie (strong currents at mouth would have meant a very early start on the morrow to get an acceptable passage), Easdale (uncertain how comfortable it would be with wind across current).  Eventually plumped for Otters Pool on the North of Siel.  This is a beautiful little anchorage, but rather confined.  On our first visit, we had to share with 3 others and had a little difficulty finding a space.  The second time, we were alone and managed to get the prime location.  This time, on the approach, we counted masts as they appeared over the sheltering islets. 6, 7, 8!  In fact, with our increasing experience, we had little difficulty in working out how to fit in to the pattern and, after our first attempt put the hook 10 metres away from the perfect position, the second was spot on and we settled in for a comfortable night. The evening’s entertainment being provided by 3 even later comers.  They too managed to find berths.

Timing for the next leg was critical, with the tidal gate at the top of the Sound of Jura giving flows in excess of 5 knots.  Happily, a departure of 0830 put us through this gate at slack water and gave a following current all the way down.  A westerly wind, F 4-5, also meant that, after an initial 4 miles close hauled, we had a near beam reach for 45 miles before once more turning into wind and beating up to Port Ellen on the South of Jura.  A great day’s sailing, though enjoyed more by the Captain than the Mate, who would have preferred a little less canvas being deployed.  Anchored in the NW side of the bay for a very comfortable night.

Monday 25^th, we hauled up anchor at 0800 and headed for the Mull of Kintyre.  A direct route would have us headed by a strong current but careful study of the tidal atlas suggested that heading East until close to the coast and then down it would produce a neutral, or even favourable currents and so it proved.  Progress was initially slow, dead running with sails goose winged before a WNW’ly F2 - 3 giving us 3 – 4 knots.  When even this wind died, we motored for 30 minutes, to murmurings by the Mate about lack of patience shown by the Captain.  On turning south, the wind increased to a steady F3.  Engine stopped and Chute deployed on a broad reach.  The occasional F4 gust induced us to snuff it but, on the expectations of lower winds later we left it on the foredeck – error.

Winds accelerate round capes.  I learned this almost at my mother’s knee, so I have no excuse for the manner of our passing the Mull of Kintyre. We were broad reaching under full main and genoa, heading south with a 10 knot W’ly.  We gave the Mull a respectable berth – 1 ½ miles and gybed, with the main sheeted hard in.  As we did so, we were hit by a gust peaking at 26 knots.  We were instantly heeled to 45 degrees and Elsie was dumped to the lee side of the cockpit.  I managed to free the sheets but even so we were headed for the cliffs at 8 knots.  Rapidly, 2 reefs were put in Genoa and main and we resumed track, suitably chastened.  Our lunch, retrieved from the galley deck was dusted off and consumed.  Only then did I notice that the cruising chute had been blown / washed off the foredeck and was trailing over the side.  Its second salt water wash in as many weeks.

Variable winds through Sanda sound morphed into a steady(ish) NW’ly F4-5 for our journey up the east side of the peninsular.  They gave a nasty chop and as we batted into it we would pitch 3 or 4 times and then slam, reducing our speed to 3-4 knots.  Tacking close to the shore improved this and, eventually, we made our destination – Torrisdale bay.  Another lovely anchorage and another quiet night.

We had agreed a destination for Tuesday (Kames bay on Bute) but it was Elsie’s turn to choose the route and sail plan.   She elected for one more reef than I would have, but I have to confess that we made good progress, close hauled up Kilbrannan sound in a NW’ly 4 simultaneously passing Loch Ranza and the Waverly paddle steamer.  The wind backed a little to facilitate our entry into the West Kyle (more than can be said for the yacht coming out on starboard tack, who relied on us keeping out of his way, though he was clearly motor assisted).  A spirited beat up to Rubha Dubh, more than keeping our own against a following yacht carrying full sail.  We can appreciate why Clyde sailors rhapsodize about the Kyles.  Truly beautiful, especially Auchenlochan.  We have promised ourselves that, when we are too old to sail, we will buy a motor caravan and re-trace our steps, looking at the view from a land perspective.  This one area that we will definitely visit. The wind was light and fluky around Caladh, so we elected to put the sails away and motor through the narrow and winding passage past the Burnt Islands. 5 minutes later we had a following F5, so full Genoa out and an easy run down the East Kyle, round the corner and into Kames bay.  An early finish, for us, of 1515.  The pilot book suggested that we might have difficulty finding space to anchor, because of moorings but there was plenty of room.  We used a tripping line, in case of abandoned ground tackle but on hauling up the next morning all we had was a bit of weed and some of the biggest starfish we have ever seen.

It is a little amusement for us to watch how literally some sailors interpret the charts.  When we arrived at Torrisdale, there was another yacht anchored exactly over the anchor symbol in the adjacent Carradale bay, even though, with the prevailing wind, it was clearly much less comfortable than our chosen spot.  At Kames, a vintage motor yacht spent 30 minutes having 3 attempts to drop his hook on the symbol off the marina entrance, inconveniencing several others who were attempting to pass.  They are probably incredulous at our recklessness in choosing our own, unauthorized, spots.

We had appointments at Rhu on Wednesday, to speak to the engineers who would be carrying out the maintenance and modifications so, after a leisurely breakfast, we heaved up and broad reached up the Clyde in a S’ly F3-4.  The afternoon was enlivened by a visit from an old work colleague bearing designer doughnuts.  He also gave us a lift for provisioning and a guided tour of Helensburgh and Gareloch.

Thursday saw gusty W’ly winds so we motor-sailed as far as Dunoon and then close reached all the way down the Clyde and across to Arran.  We had an invite to dinner, bed and breakfast from another ex-colleague and neighbour who has moved to Brodick.  As we were going to be leaving Ruby unattended, we moored to a bouy.  We tend not to do this often as anchoring is so easy and picking up bouys can be tricky, especially in gusty F6 winds, as now.  We managed at the 3^rd attempt, put 2 sturdy lines on, inflated the dinghy (not yet named) and motored ashore.  Elsie had been a little trepidatious about this, but the promise of a break from my cooking won the day.  Colin and June treated us to an excellent meal at the Brodick Bar and a comfortable night in a room which overlooked the bay so we could check up on Ruby.

Colin had accepted the offer of a day sail and with WNW’ly F4 forecast for all day, it would have been rude not to throw a loop round Ailsa Craig and this we did, beam reaching down and back at a fine pace.  Halfway down, the chart has the legend ‘High speed craft’.  As we approached this point, I was about to complain at their absence when not one but two appeared.  One catamaran ferry and one gin palace.  Lesson learned from Kintyre, we put in an extra reef before passing behind the rock but it was not needed on this occasion.  With 5 miles to run back to Brodick, the wind veered and turned gusty, forcing us to beat up hand steered.  We anchored close inshore at 1900 and ran Colin ashore.

Family commitments mean a trip home is called for so it was back to Rhu on Saturday.  Broad reaching up under all plain sail and, for an hour, with the Cruising chute up to fully dry it after Mondays dip.  A fine weekend meant dozens of yachts in addition to the usual ferries and sailing efficiency had at times to be sacrificed for collision avoidance.  Tied up at 1430, giving time for laundry and other mundane tasks.

This trips stats:

19 nights aboard; 14 days sailing; 9 nights at anchor; 698 miles logged.