March 2015

We break free from the canal and head North, to the bemusement of locals.

2015 is the year, health permitting, that we spend as much time as possible on Ruby, to discover if we are really cut out for prolonged cruising.  The plan is to start out reasonably locally, on the West coast of Scotland, and spend 10 – 14 days per month on board returning to our part-time jobs for the remaining periods to keep the finances in order.  Plan ‘A’ was to move our berth from Inverness to Corpach at the West end of the Caledonian Canal and move gradually further afield.  Our Autumn cruise, when we spent most of the time planning how to arrive back in the right place at the right time with the forecast weather, showed us that this might not be the best way.  Why not see which way the weather wanted us to go and follow it instead?  Accordingly, plan ‘B’ was to head West at the earliest reasonable opportunity, early March and cruise in the shelter of the Western Isles until it was prudent to head further North.  This plan was scuppered when it was discovered, too late to position Ruby to the West, that the Canal would be closed to through traffic from early January ‘til late March.  Plan ‘C’ took us on a cruise on the more demanding East coast in March, through the canal in April and then continue as plan ‘B’.  We actually set out on this but, on the day we departed, parts of the canal were washed away by a storm and it was announced that the closure would last at least another month.  We were committed.

Our first day of ‘freedom’, the 10^th March, took us North, to Wick. Mostly broad reaching in a westerly F5 with well reefed sails.  A cracking 70 miles in the bag to set us going.  The forecast for the next couple of days was for Westerly gales, so we hunkered down and planned our crossing of the dreaded Pentland Firth for the 3^rd day.  This was forecast for light airs and so it proved.  So motored across at slack(ish) water.  Even then the currents and chop were apparent which vindicated our caution.  Motored up to St Margaret’s Hope – a beautifully sheltered anchorage.

The following day, with Southerly F5-6 winds, we played with our new Genoa.  What a difference! Even reefed, we can point to within 40 degrees of the wind and make 6-7 knots through the water.  Beating becomes almost a pleasure.  We cut some long, elegant grooves in the surface of Scapa Flow before heading into Stromness.  What a beautiful little town this is!  If the temperature were only 20 degrees warmer it would be perfect.  But then, others would think so too and it would be teeming with tourists, souvenir shops and fast food joints and it would join all those other ‘used to be perfect’ places further South.  Perhaps just as well to keep it for those prepared to wrap up warm to enjoy it.  A fish supper was called for and of the many places available, we followed the example of the locals and ate from a mobile chippy.  Good decision – excellent food and enormous portions.

Stromness

Up to this point, the medium range forecast had been for the wind to turn Northerly, facilitating a return to the mainland and an approximation to our earlier plan ‘B’, possibly leaving Ruby at Plockton.  This now changed to South Westerlies.  No problems – we are now flexible.

After a rest day, for Elsie to nurse a cold, we headed back out to sea.  An early start, to catch favourable currents through Hoy Mouth, then North up the coast. Past Mull head, round Papa Westray and into Pierowall.  Once again, we were met with surprise that anyone should be sailing this far North so early in the year.  The visitors’ pontoon was not yet in place so we tied up to an old floating oil hose which acts as a giant fender.  Only slightly to the annoyance of a local fisherman who entered the harbour an hour later, did a handbrake turn, and went round to tie up on the outside of the wall.

Tuesday saw us heading up as far North as Orkney stretches, to the North of North Ronaldsay.  S’ly F4 gave us a reasonable speed, but not so much comfort as we came out of the shelter of the islands and into the full Atlantic swell.  Our plan to pass down the Eastern side was defeated by a dying wind and a strong Northerly current, so we retreated and headed into Otterswick on Sanday for the night.  Huge anchorage area to choose from, but a low swell kept us rolling all night.

Wednesday dawned with very poor visibility and a cautious departure, making full use of plotter, radar and AIS.  Down the West of Sanday through Lashy sound.  A cursory reading of the pilot book, and current arrows on my Navionincs ap had suggested we might expect adverse currents of up to 2 knots.  There were, so engine on to assist.  3 knots, 4, 5.  Genoa away and main tightened. 6 knots. 7.  Full power and we were only creeping ahead. 25 minutes of precise steering to navigate the tightest part of the sound, then we were through.  Another lesson learned.  Read the pilot book more carefully!  Into Jack’s hole at the entrance to Whitehall to a very nice anchorage just outside the channel.  Elsie was a little concerned that we might impede the ferry, but he showed his manoeuvrability with handbrake turns round the bouys.

Thursday was supposed to be a trip down to the South end, to look at the Churchill barriers.  The weather co-operated but the engine didn’t.  Totally flat starter battery.  Rigged a jump lead from the service battery and 30 minutes later we were ready to go but with yesterday’s experience showing the importance of a reliable engine in these parts, we decided to head for Kirkwall for maintenance.  Good sail down and tied up early afternoon.  Port control had located a helpful local expert who looked at the starter battery, pronounced it duff and arranged for a new one.  He also agreed to look at our AIS which periodically trips out for no apparent reason.  The radar also trips out at sea.  Theories for this include chafing wires inside the mast and overheating after a period of operation.  Further investigation required.

Friday was a day for maintenance, with outboard, which has never run properly, away for a service and provisioning of dry stores (and some wet ones!) for next trip.

Saturday, we said goodbye to Ruby, for a couple of weeks; caught 3 busses, 1 ferry and retrieved our car from Inverness and headed home and work.