July 2015

We see the tall ships and discover why Ireland is so green.

We returned to Ruby on the 28^th June and she was re-launched on the 29th.  Electrician was still flitting about, changing light fittings, and evincing surprise that, a mere 3 days after planned, we were going to depart.  I thought it prudent to do so before one of us expressed our displeasure at his lack of progress in undiplomatic language. So, at 1400, we let go and motored to Rothesay to anchor for the night.

In the morning, we picked up anchor and motored into Rothesay marina, to do a little shopping and internetting, chiefly to pay a couple of bills by direct transfer.  Not the electricians: he could sweat for a bit.  Jobs done we motored out then sailed, in variable winds, finishing with a cracking close reach, down the Clyde, across to Aran and into Lamlash to anchor for the night.  Our first Tall Ship of the season, the Lord Nelson, was here, on her way to Belfast.

The 1^st of July was spent, initially drifting before a light Northerly then beating into a building Southerly, sailing down to Stranraer.  Anchored off the town.

An early start set us on a broad reach out of Stranraer, then a glorious beam reach in a SSE’ly F4 across the North Channel to Carrickfergus.  Very nice marina, which we had booked in advance, as the whole of Belfast area was very busy for the start of the Tall Ships race.  On Saturday morning, we motored into Belfast harbour to see the contestants from the water.  Unfortunately, they were spread around the harbour and we were only allowed access to parts, so didn’t get the full tour.  After tying up back at the marina, we caught a bus into town and joined the throngs viewing from the shore, going aboard a couple of them. Realising that, unlike Scotland, shops are closed on Sundays, we scuttled back and provisioned for the following few days.

Arrows over Carrickfergus

Sunday morning, we were held in the Marina, while the Red Arrows displayed, with us almost at crowd centre.  Unfortunately, low cloud meant it was the flat display, but entertaining as always.  They finished on the dot of 11:30 and at 11:31 we let go and motored out to view the parade of the Tall Ships.  There was a pleasant S’ly breeze, so we were able to sail up to the harbour entrance then back alongside the parade to Carrickfergus.  They then headed south towards Bangor, but we continued round the coast with a favourable current giving us, at times, over 10 knots across the ground.  Into Rathlin Island for the night.

Morgenster

Monday, out early again.  Soon sailing in a S’ly 3 to view the Giants causeway from seawards then on to see the Tall Ships race start.  There was a published position for this.  We failed to read between the lines and did not realise that this was the ‘dead’ end of the start line and the ‘live’ end was some 5 miles further South. So, although we managed to see some of them preparing to go, we didn’t  get the grandstand view we were hoping for.

Fryderyk Chopin

The weather turned squally as the race started so we headed south, back into Portrush for the night.

Two drowned rats, on arrival in Portrush

A bit of light shopping and were set to cruise the West of Ireland.  The pontoon is fairly small and, as we were settling for the evening a Swedish yacht appeared and rafted up outside us.  Elsie isn’t always the best at sharing and muttered a bit at this.  The mutters grew louder as it transpired that the crew needed exercise after 2 days at sea and this exercise consisted of repeatedly crossing and re-crossing our deck to the shore and back through the evening and into the small hours.

 We got our own back by leaving at 08:00.  Out and sailing west in a WSW’ly 3.  When this died, we motored for a couple of hours to make progress against the current, then beat into a W’ly 4 up to Mulroy bay.

Out at 08:30 into a NW’ly 5.  Stood a couple of miles offshore and on tacking, a spectator on the shore lost sight of us and reported our loss to the coastguard.  Situation soon resolved as he could see our AIS signal and checked with us that there was no other yacht in difficulty nearby.  A boisterous sail along the North coast past Malin head before turning South past Aran island and round to Teelin, anchoring at 19:30.

A short hop the next day across to Aughris hole, near the entrance to the river Erne.  More in hope than expectation, laid my new collapsible crab pots, baited with out-of-date ham.  This proved attractive and in the morning I had 8 customers.  I threw the 4 smallest back and saved the others for later.  They had a lumpy ride as the S’ly 4-5 built to an unforecast 7-8. We motored for the last couple of hours and anchored at 16:40 off Broadhaven.  This proved a good berth and we lay there through a gale which lasted 36 hours.  Crabs cooked and prepared.  Tasty, but not a huge portion for all the effort.  A hobby rather than serious food gathering.

Sorting crabs.

Saturday 12^th, we were up early and sailing by 07:00.  Fine progress for the first hour but then got headed by the current and saw far too much of Eagle island before finally losing patience and motoring past.   Once established southbound, we had a good sail down past Achil head and into Blackrock on Clare Island.  Anchored at 2030.

Up anchor at 0730 and motored in flat calm to Inish Boffin, for provisions and water.  Phoned harbour master, who turned out not to be.  But he assured me that water was available on the pier.  It might have worked if it was high tide but, having tied up to the end, climbed up a 30 ft ladder and walked the 200 yard length, the last 100 yards past dry land, I found the only tap.  Oh well, we still had half tanks.  Community shop didn’t open til 11:00 and, as it was Monday morning with no supplies since last week, didn’t provide much in the way of fresh food. Out again in building Northerly and had a great run down to Slyne head, the broad reach under full genoa to Kilronan on Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands.

We were planning to go to Tralee the next day but the weather for later in the week looked dubious, to say the least so, after Loop head, we took a short cut across the bay to Smerwick bay.  Another great downwind sail with 75 miles logged and 67 achieved across the ground.  And another very pleasant anchorage, tucked round a corner to shelter us from the Northerly swell.

Out at 0830.  We could have cut inside the Blasket Islands but, as we only had a short distance to go to Dingle, decided to go round and achieve the Westernmost part of Ireland.   We turned Great Foze rock at 11:30 and broad reached with one reef back to Dingle.  Saw many interesting sights.  The Blasket islands resemble petrified dinosaurs; lots of dolphins and possibly pilot whales and, most remarkably, a catamaran sailing!  As we approached Dingle, a 100ft superyacht entered, then re-emerged.  The reason for this was a 148ft yacht coming the other way down the narrow channel. We were pleased to see him set full sail on exit, as so many of the large yachts seem to just motor from port to port.  When we went in, we were put bow-to-bow with the 100 footer and felt very small.

 

Blasket Islands

Dingle was a bit of a disappointment.  Very touristy down by the harbour.  This is driven very largely by a semi-tame dolphin, Furgie, apparently the same one for over 30 years, who lives at the entrance to the harbour and greets passing boats.  There are dozens of launches taking tourists out to see him.  As we entered, he came over to us and, immediately, six other boats converged on us.  There were good bits: helpful marina staff; a community laundry which did 3 large bags of very smelly washing for 40 Euros, a very good supermarket for provisions and, best of all, some traditional bars.  One, disguised as an ironmongers, supplied us with replacement camping gas and pints of Guinness and cider while Elsie watched the open Golf on a not-so-traditional wide screen telly. 

We spent 4 nights in Dingle, sheltering from storms but left at 08:00 on Sunday 19^th.  Slow progress with a F2 on the beam, but progress, nonetheless, past Valentia Island.  As we turned SouthEast, the wind picked up to F3 and we made good progress under the ‘chute to Garnish Bay.  There is a very small sheltered anchorage which was full.  We tried anchoring on the edge of it but found only weed which, as it was forecast to blow up in the night, was not going to hold us.  We exited and went to the head of the bay where we found a good spot and a very comfortable berth.

Out at 8:00 again, into a SW’ly F4-5.  Close hauled past Dursey Island then beam reaching to Fastnet Rock.  That’s 3 of 4 boxes ticked for the extremities of Ireland.  A run under full Genoa brought us to Baltimore harbour, easily spotted from seawards by a huge white beacon, Lot’s Wife, on the head.  We anchored in the lee of Sherkin Island but were disappointed by the rolling induced by the swell coming in from the harbour entrance.  Not the most comfortable night.

A later start on Tuesday 21^st.  Out at 10:00 and a pleasant run along the coast to Kinsale.  Experimented with sails, rigging poled out Cruising Chute on one side and Genoa, with sheet running through block on boom on the other.  Seems to work.  Found a snug little anchorage behind Knockrush Island.  Bouys at the entrance warn of swimmers and, indeed, there were hardy souls swimming round the island.   

Wednesday gave us another run up to Cork Harbour entrance.  We had a day to kill, before our booked flight home on Friday, so decided to motor all the way up to the city.  Very convenient pontoon allowed us to visit a chandlery, get another service was done and have a walk through the city, including a visit to a fantastic covered market.  And very reasonable price for a berth too.

On Thursday 23^rd, we motored back down the river to Monkstown Marina, to meet the owner, James, who proved most hospitable, giving us a lift to catch our bus the following day and arrange an electrician.  When I bought a generator to top up batteries, I had not appreciated that, while we can charge at 50-70 amps when the main engine is running, our charger is rated at 25 amps which, if we have any services running means an effective rate of 20 amps.  Not good when we can easily clock up 70 – 100 Ah per day.  So an uprated charger, giving us 50 amps will significantly cut down generator hours.  Another little job which we wanted doing was fitting speakers for the domestic radio / CD player in the cockpit so we can have music on the move.  Electrician Michael agreed to fit these in our absence.

Friday 24^th, we said goodbye to Ruby and headed back to Scotland for a couple of weeks.