In which we make it
to Canary Islands and start our cruising life.
We started November in Porto Santo, Madeira. Having had a few days exploring this small
island, on the 1st we set off to the main island. We wanted to see a bit of it but indications
were that, at this season, we were unlikely to get into the small marina at
Funchal and that other marinas could be crowded, expensive and
inconvenient. It being fair weather, we
anchored the first night just south
of the eastern tip in the Baia de Albra, a very pleasant little anchorage. I
had dropped a pair of expensive sunglasses overboard in Porto Santo and, while
retrieving them noticed that the propeller anode was nearly exhausted. I took the opportunity to renew this, using
my little Scuba set.
Leaving Porto Santo
The following two
nights there was a south westerly forecast so marina berth required as there is
no natural shelter. A phone call to
Quinto de Lorde confirmed that they could accommodate us. Although it was only 2 miles away, we decided
to have a beam reach down the Islas Desertas and back just for fun so actually
did 46 logged; 41 across the ground. Very
warm welcome and plenty of space. But the cost! Our length being 12.06 metres
(most places ignore the 6 cms) meant that we were classed as 12 – 15 metres,
which put the price up from 33 to 46 Euros per night. They then added on 10% for this and 20% for
that and charged over 62 Euros. Even at
current exchange rates this is ridiculous for somewhere 90 minutes by bus from
town.
Another phone call in the morning to Funchal gave us news
that there was space for us there so off we went. Directly into a SW’ly 4-5 gave us a spirited
beat. 4 hours to achieve 13 miles to
windward (though 25 miles logged). The
pilot book spoke of rafting 6 or 7 deep and the phone call had advised that we
would be alongside another boat. No
problem, Elsie is getting better at sharing.
It was only when we got to the far, cramped, corner of the harbour that
we realised that we were expected to moor stern to the pontoon with a lazy line
pick up to hold us off. This is standard
procedure in the Med and, 2-3 years ago we were well practiced but we were
unprepared and Ruby does not handle well in confined spaces with a cross
wind. Suffice it to say that we provided
entertainment for the onlookers without actually hitting anything. The fees here were a much more reasonable E26
per night.
Thursday 5th, we stayed in Funchal, intending to see
the sights but after visiting one winery, where they didn’t do tours but
provided free samples and another where they did both, we were not in a fit
state to anything but sit and admire the scenery. On Friday, after a delay caused by a blocked
loo, we hired a car and toured the western end of the island encountering many
hairpin bends, excellent ice cream and one parking ticket. Managed to get help from a local on the last
and escaped with only a 4 euro penalty.
We rounded off the afternoon with a trip up a mountain. Elsie pointed out a little side road which
seemed to be signposted to a higher mountain 20 km away. Surely a mistake. No.
There really was this incredible narrow, steep, windy road along the
spine of the island. Poor little Renault
had to climb about 2000 ft in 1st gear and the road was shutting for
the night in 30 minutes so it was an ‘interesting’ journey. Give Elsie her due, she only actually
screamed once.
We had been studying route winds since arrival. The previous Tuesday would have been ideal for
our next leg down to Lanzarote, but would have meant missing the Madeira
tourist bit. Saturday looked, albeit
with a slow start pretty good but we needed to make some ground to the East to
get the best wind so, on Friday afternoon, we motored back to our initial
anchorage, needing only 2 hours for the journey this time.
Sun setting over Madeira
We had to motor out of the anchorage on Saturday morning but
within an hour had just enough wind on the beam to give us 3 knots. It slowly built and, by 20:00 we had a F4
giving us 6-7 knots with one reef in for the night watches. We had had full moon on the way to Madeira
but, 2 weeks having passed, it was now proper dark – another new experience for
Elsie who, though apprehensive at first, soon found the pleasure of a real
night watch (in fair weather with the wind on the beam!). Our plan of heading north of track worked
well and we managed to keep the wind near the beam all the way down. Once again we kept 6 hour watches and with
growing confidence (and better weather) Elsie didn’t need to wake me at all
while I was off-watch. She managed to
eat and I managed to sleep so we arrived in great shape 51 hours later at La
Graciosa, the most northerly of the inhabited Canary Islands. There is an anchorage in the sound between
this and Lanzarote, which we had visited before both on Fumeke, a chartered
Dufour 34 and as guests on Velvet Lady, an Oyster 55. Previous visits had been in February and we
had had the bay to ourselves. This time,
there were about 12 others, but finding a space presented no problem and we
settled down for a couple of days of idleness.
On Thursday 12th, we managed to shake off our
torpor and repeated a voyage first made on Fumeke, down the west of Lanzarote
nearly 4 years earlier. Back then, it
had seemed like a huge undertaking – nearly 40 miles with no intermediate safe
haven (not helped by my trapping, and breaking, a finger in the sprayhood. Strapping with duct tape showed, once again
how essential this stuff is). Now, it
was much less daunting, though perhaps we should have stirred ourselves a
little rather than having a leisurely breakfast and only just managing to get
the anchor up before 10. We might then
not have had to motor for an hour when the following wind dropped to F3 and our
speed of less than 3 knots meant that we might run out of daylight. Fortunately the wind increased and veered
more to the beam so we had a good reach down and beat up to marina Rubicon on
the southern coast. Strong winds were
forecast for the next 2 nights, so we planned a 36 hour stay.
To entertain myself on Friday, I decided to check out the
plumbing on the head (loo) before we had another blockage. Oh dear.
Over the years, the 38mm outlet pipe had become encrusted with sea salt
and was now less than 10mm for most of its 5 metre length. Plus 3 valves.
Most of this was inside a small locker inside
an already small compartment. It turned
out to be a 3 day job to obtain, adapt and fit all the parts. The marina is pleasant and we had no pressing
engagements, so it could have been worse.
We stayed local for the rest of the week, day sailing and anchoring just
outside the marina, as I had booked the boatyard to do a check on our standing
rigging, replaced 4 months and several thousand miles ago. It transpired that no adjustment was
necessary but better to be sure. Day
trips included a circumnavigation of Ilsa de Lobos; one where we just zoomed
out to the west and back, covering 34 miles in less than 5 hours and one where
we tried hoisting our old genoa in the spare headsail track to give us twin
headsails for a downwind passage.
Several hours were usefully spent experimenting with various sheeting
and furling strategies and we are (reasonably) convinced that this is the way
to go downwind in the Trades.
Salt encrusted diverter valve
The following Saturday, we sailed the ten miles up the coast
to Porto Calero marina, where Ruby was to spend the next week as it was time
for my 2 monthly trip back to Scotland for medical checks. Elsie spent the week doing her Day Skipper
practical course. Passing this means
that, on paper at least, she is more highly qualified than I am to sail
Ruby. I wonder if she will still let me
take a turn at being in charge?
Monthly Stats:
531 miles logged
506 miles across the ground.
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